164e Diff Ratio

Discussion in 'Other Volvo Models' started by Pete Fuggle, Feb 3, 2004.

  1. Pete Fuggle

    Pete Fuggle Guest

    Hi All,

    thanks for all your responses to my previous post.

    Have had more of a chance to become acquainted with and fix niggling
    problems with the 164e. Am really beginning to like it for reasons that
    will probably be familiar to many of you but there remain a few niggling
    things...

    Firstly the steering at full lock left. It shudders and carries on but
    is fine if you just back it off from lock a little. I remember the same
    thing on my Mum's old 245GL back in the mid eighties when I was learning
    to drive on it... That car (the 245) couldn't have been that old but had
    similar symptoms. I assume it is on the left lock because in Aus we
    drive on the left and hence backing out of driveways, parks etc.
    requires full lock but on the other side full lock is rarely used. Any
    ideas?

    Ok, second is the fuel economy which I mentioned last time. Well, not
    just the economy. Also the fact that the engine "sings" at highway
    speeds (100-120k/h). I had another look and at 120k/h it is indicating
    3700rpm. Last time I mentioned the tranny but overlooked the possibility
    of perhaps changing the diff ratio to raise the overall gearing. Is this
    possible do you think? Should certainly be an easier mod than, say,
    dropping a Jap 5 speed box into it. Besides, the three speed Borg Warner
    kinda suits the feel of the car.

    For any Aussies here I just thought I'd share... This car reminds me
    very much of an old (70's) Holden 6 (186 or 202 - closer to 186 in
    capacity) with a Trimatic box. Of course the build quality of the Volvo
    is better, it's more solid and there are more creature comforts like
    leather interior, AC, power steering etc. but in terms of engine and box
    they are almost identical in feel.

    Ok, one last thing... I think I read somewhere that the mechanical
    injectors can make a noise like faint tappet noise. Well I am hearing
    faint tappet-like noises and assume that it is the injectors making it.
    I don't think this is bad but wonder if others have experienced this?

    Cheers,

    Pete
     
    Pete Fuggle, Feb 3, 2004
    #1
  2. Pete Fuggle

    Pete Fuggle Guest

    Ok,

    have been doing a bit of sniffing around re diff ratios and found this
    at this page:

    http://www.164club.org/techdata.html#Rear axle

    Also discovered that I have the B30E high comp motor - sweet! Normally
    when I buy a car impulsively I discover that I have all the undesirable
    options! Oh, and discovered that mine is actually a '74, not a '75 as I
    was initially told.

    We have:

    3.54:1 Diff Ratio
    1974 B30A/M400 (Malaysia), B30A/BW35 (Malaysia), B30E/M400 (Scandinavia),
    B30F/M400, B30E/M410, ****B30E/BW35 (Australia)****

    We want:

    3.73:1 Diff Ratio
    1972 B30A/M400 (Scandinavia), B30A/M410, ****B30A/BW35 (Australia)****,
    B30E/M400,
    B30E/M410, B30F/M400, B30F/M410


    So if I can find a diff out of a 1972 model 164e I will raise the
    gearing by (3.73/3.54*100)-100% = 5.4%. Perhaps this appears to be not
    worth doing but I think it may just do the trick both for fuel economy
    and noise at highway speeds. Currently the tacho shows just under
    3100rpm at 100k/h. The proposed gearing change would reduce that to 2940rpm.

    So... Anyone in Aus got what I need?

    Cheers,

    Pete
     
    Pete Fuggle, Feb 3, 2004
    #2
  3. Pete Fuggle

    Mike F Guest

    If you have a 3.54, going to a 3.73 is the wrong direction.... There
    really isn't anything you can do to lower your highway revs, short of
    changing the transmission. Volvo has 3.31 gears (used in later manual
    transmission 240s) and even 3.15, but you'll need to put these "guts"
    inside your diff housing.

    The injectors are usually quieter than the engine - so your tappet noise
    is probably the tappets. Oiling of the cam area is the one weak point
    of this engine (and the 4 cylinder version too).

    --
    Mike F.
    Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

    NOTE: new address!!
    Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
    (But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
     
    Mike F, Feb 3, 2004
    #3
  4. Pete Fuggle

    athol Guest

    Correct. I run 2.47 gears in my 264. No, that's not a typo. :)
    IIRC, the Volvo diffs from 1, 2 and 7 series are all essentially Dana
    30 series. The Dana 30 is also used in some Jeeps, and can be had in
    ratios of 3.07 and 2.73.

    Note that the Dana 30 series run one offset of hemisphere for ratios
    of 3.73 and shorter and a different one for 3.54 and taller. The
    crownwheel and pinion set from a Jeep should theoretically bolt
    straight into a Volvo provided that you have the correct hemisphere.

    Because the salisbury style axle housing requires special tools and
    shims, this is a job for a specialist...
     
    athol, Feb 4, 2004
    #4
  5. Pete Fuggle

    Pete Fuggle Guest

    Sorry Mike, my bad!
    And how's that both around town and on the highway? And fuel
    consumption? Sounds like a fairly radical mod from 3.54/3.73.

    Perhaps I should try for 3.07? I found this on ebay:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33731&item=2457553118

    Any ideas on whether it will fit? I read your comment on the Dana 30
    offsets below but am still trying to get my head around shorter and
    taller. Correct me if I'm wrong but taller means lower ratio, right? ie.
    3.07 gives taller gearing than 3.54 so the offsets should be the same
    for these two?

    The ebay item above also mentions "high pinion" and "27 spline axles"....?

    Thanks for all the pointers so far.

    Pete
     
    Pete Fuggle, Feb 4, 2004
    #5
  6. Pete Fuggle

    Mike F Guest

    Because the gears are referring to reductions, higher numerically is
    lower gearing. Volvo had 2 different final drives, (they called them
    1030 and 1031) they used different gear sets. In the "old" days, the
    1030 was for the 4 cylinders, 1031 for the sixes. This maybe the
    difference in "offset of hemisphere" as mentioned by athol. The 1031
    type was in the higher ratios (lower numerically), and was in Volvo's
    words "somewhat stronger". However, by the end there was some crossover
    in the middle ratios, 3.91 and 3.73 were both available for both types,
    and maybe some others too.

    Also, as mentioned, installing a ring and pinion is a job that requires
    precision measuring tools, shims etc. to get the clearances and contact
    areas set perfectly, or the gears will howl or even grind themselves to
    pieces.

    --
    Mike F.
    Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

    NOTE: new address!!
    Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
    (But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
     
    Mike F, Feb 4, 2004
    #6
  7. Pete Fuggle

    athol Guest

    Well, if you looked at the link in my signature, you might have
    found out why I run the 2.47. :)

    The 350 Chev gets similar economy with the 2.47 gears to the
    B27E with 3.54 gears... The 2.47 gears are in a Ford 9" diff...
    Taller means a _smaller_ reduction (smaller number) which is
    considered to be a _higher_ ratio, not lower. Confusing, huh?

    I think that the use of "higher" comes from the fact that the
    vehicle speed will be higher at the same engine revs. Back in
    the 1970s and 1980s, there used to be ads for "high speed diff
    conversions" for vans, where they fitted taller gears...
    High pinion is useless. This is a front diff for a 4WD, with the
    pinion above the axles. The Volvo diffs are _low pinion_ or
    _conventional pinion_. The high pinion actually turns the
    opposite way, and is completely the wrong shape to fit.

    IIRC, all Volvo axles are 27 spline. That's normal for all Dana 30
    AFAIK.

    On a related topic, does anybody know how much longer a 7 series
    axle (shaft, not housing) is than a 2 series?
     
    athol, Feb 6, 2004
    #7
  8. Pete Fuggle

    M-gineering Guest

    The injector noise can be replicated by switching on the ignition and
    opening the throttlevalve. No way you will hear this with the engine
    running. Tappetlike noises are often due to the timingwheel.The fiber
    camshaftwheel could be on it's way out, the steel version will never be
    quiet.
    /Marten
     
    M-gineering, Feb 6, 2004
    #8
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