1800 for daily-ish driver?

Hi all,

it looks like it is getting close to time to search for another car...
my trusty Porsche 944 is getting a little long in the tooth and while
I'm sure it could be pulled off the road and rehabbed, I'd need
something to drive while doing so. (well, actually the girl would - I
have a company car, but she hasn't had a car of her own for a couple
years now.)

A Volvo 1800 has always been on my list of "cars I'd like to own
someday" and I think I've got her convinced that they're attractive,
acceptable cars. One would assume, since as far as I can tell, it's
basically an Amazon with a nicer looking body, that it should be capable
of being used as a regular car without too much trouble, but I don't
really have any experience with them. She takes the Metro to work, and
I have a company car, so it'd primarily be used for errands and the
occasional road trip.

Am I smoking the crack? How much should one expect to pay for an 1800
in good driving condition, but not necessarily show quality? Where
would one go about finding 1800s for sale? Any web sites/forums I
should be checking out?

thanks

nate

 

Assuming it is sorted out, no problem using it as a daily driver.

Nice ones aren't cheap.

IPD has some listed in their free customer classifieds:
http://www.ipdusa.com/classifieds.asp?CLC_ID=12

 

thanks. what's "not cheap?" 5K? 10K? I really don't know because I
don't see enough.

Any specific trouble spots to look for? Typical rust areas? Mechanical
issues?

nate

 

Depending on whether you go with the older SU-carburetted version,
the newer fuel-injected version, or the fuel-injected sport wagon
version that was the last one made, a nice one should run from about
$3500 (carb) to $5k (wagon) to $10k (1970 or 71 P1800E fuel injected
coupe). Look for rust in the frame-rail-like reinforcing members of the
unibody underside, and rusted floorpans. The floorpans can be replaced,
but the reinforcing members are much more work. Since you don't know
this car, I suggest you either find one restored by someone with an
excellent rep, or be prepared to devote a lot of time to fixing things
you didn't know were bad, or didn't think would be a big deal.

The car was offered with a separate overdrive unit as an option, not
standard. Many of the plain 4 speeds have been converted to 4+OD, but
for commuting don't let lack of OD scare you. Those cars actually have a
higher top speed, because the differential is geared higher, so they
will, if running well, redline in 4th, while the OD cars have a lower
tops speed in 4th and can't redline in OD. Top speed is about 110 for 5
speeds, 120 for 4. The wagon was offered with an automatic, but it's a
basic 3 speed slushbox that really slows the car.

 

thanks for the reply, not really set on one model but from a styling
perspective I tend to gravitate toward the older cars. Can one really
get a reliable "driver" car for the $3500 you state? that's not really
all that bad. What's your opinion on Weber conversions? I've done a
little searching and it seems that most (of the few) cars for sale that
would have had the SUs are now running Webers.

nate

 

The price depends on where you live. Old Volvos, even nice ones,
tend to sell for much less than you'd think - it's a shame for the
owners, but a good deal for the buyers. It's my understanding that Weber
conversion cars are a bit thirstier, but make more power. You might have
to re-jet one (leaner) to be a daily driver. AFAIK they are reliable. If
you live in the Rust belt, look elsewhere for your P1800.