1986 240 DL - While driving, engine shut off ,now won't start.

Discussion in 'Volvo 240' started by chibahawk, May 11, 2004.

  1. chibahawk

    chibahawk Guest

    Last night I was on my way to watch the sopranos at my sisters house,
    halfway there, I'm going down the street excelerating, and all of a sudden,
    the engine shut off, i pushed the pedal to the floor ,no power.
    I let it roll up to the curb,popped the hood. Eyeballed under the hood real
    quick, could'nt see anything wrong. I jumped back in, and it restarted!
    So, I went on to my sisters house about 3 miles, then right when i was
    about to pull in the driveway, it died again. Same thing no power from gas
    pedal. Very Upset, I went ahead in to watch the Sopranos.
    Afterwards, I went out to try to start up, no good. (I'm not an expert at
    all so excuse my car grammer) The Ignition tries to start up the engine
    but, it won't turn over. Lights and radio work though.
    I left it there overnight.
    Today I tried again, same thing, no luck. I had my brother in law come out
    to look at it, he did a few tests, still no startup.
    I ended up getting it towed back home, and want hopefully to fix it myself,
    So far people say it could be a number of things that could be wrong.This
    will be my first attempt to fix my 1986 240 dl, which I really like,So any
    Ideas or Links to websites that might help me troubleshoot are really
    appreciated.
     
    chibahawk, May 11, 2004
    #1
  2. chibahawk

    Duane Hoberg Guest

    A few quick checks. There are about a dozen separate items that will
    prevent your auto from starting and display the symptoms you described.

    Are you out of gas?

    Roll the fuses in the fuse panel. This cleans and reconnects them since the
    different metals of the fuse and panel like to corrode and insulate
    themselves. Usually evident after a long period of hummid and rainy
    weather.

    Remove and clean the 25 amp main system fuse located on the left fender
    under the hood. One of the wires from the battery leads to this spade type
    fuse clipped to the rail on the fender. Same problem as the other fuses
    with hunidity.

    Have your radio off. When you turn the key to ON, there should be a click
    heard from the passenger side foot well area. When you turn the key to
    start, there should be a second click. The first click is the fuel system
    control relay, the second is the fuel pump portion of the relay closing.
    Both these clicks are necessary for the auto to run.

    Sometimes the relay just fails and needs replacement. Other times when the
    fuel pump portion does not get a signal from a sensor in the distributor,
    the fuel pumps will not turn on and no fuel pumped means no start.

    To fully diagnose, you need a Bentley Manual or Volvo Service Manual. The
    Haynes or Chiltons fall way short of clarity and full systemm diagnoses
    capability. It could be anything from a wire from the ignition switch to a
    sensor for the fuel or ignition system failing. Just do not replace the
    fuel system control module. This rarely fails and is replaced by garages
    who do not know better or wish to make a lot of money quick.

    Duane
     
    Duane Hoberg, May 11, 2004
    #2
  3. chibahawk

    Rod Gray Guest

    Check what Duane said. If you can hear the fuel pump running under the car,
    it could be the bellows hose on the in tank pump. They rot and with less
    than a half tank of gas the in tank pump cannot supply the main pump. It's
    very common on older 240's.
     
    Rod Gray, May 11, 2004
    #3
  4. chibahawk

    chibahawk Guest

    Thanks for the info Duane,
    I'm gonna try some tests tonight, and I'm gonna get my hands on a manual.
     
    chibahawk, May 12, 2004
    #4
  5. chibahawk

    Boris Mohar Guest

    That is the one that just jailed me today. It started as an intermittent.
    The spade connections on the fuse were very corroded. It is a good idea to
    disconnect the battery ground if you are going to be taking a close look at
    that fuse holder. One end of it goes directly to the battery.




    Regards,

    Boris Mohar

    Got Knock? - see:
    Viatrack Printed Circuit Designs http://www3.sympatico.ca/borism/
     
    Boris Mohar, May 12, 2004
    #5
  6. chibahawk

    chibahawk Guest

    I rolled the fuses, and checked the 25 amp fuse under the hood,
    still no luck.
    I did'nt hear the first click from the passenger side footwell area,
    nor the second click mentioned.

    How difficult, or easy could this be to fix myself?

    Any idea how much somthing like the problem i explained should cost to fix
    at a garage?
     
    chibahawk, May 15, 2004
    #6
  7. chibahawk

    Duane Hoberg Guest

    Since the fuses are OK, and no click from the first relay, I'd take a wild
    guess and say get a system/fuel relay and install it.

    You are lucky that at this time, I have just finished finding the cause of
    my system fuse (25A under hood) blowing. Caused the same no start condition
    you describe. That means the info form the troubleshootiung I have done is
    fresh in my mind.

    If you can use a test light or VoltOhmMeter, there is one test before
    replacing the relay.

    If you take the knee bolster from under the passenger side dash, you will
    see some wires that drape accross the bottom of the glove box. The set you
    are looking for is three wires, a thick red with yellow stripe, a red wire
    and a red with black stripe. This set comes out of the top of the passenger
    side foot well into a white connector. Separate this connector and check
    for 12 volts to ground with the ignition switch on from the red with black
    stripe wire that comes from the left side of the car. If there is 12
    volts,the relay is most likely bad. If no power, the ignition switch has a
    problem.

    The relay is a white plastic box clipped or laying against the firewall.
    This rectangular box about one by two by two inches controls the fuel pumps
    and injectors. They have a habit of failing at the worst time.

    Duane
     
    Duane Hoberg, May 15, 2004
    #7
  8. chibahawk

    Duane Hoberg Guest

    Getting this fixed at a garage can cost you from the cost of the relay ($60)
    plus about $50 labor to so much it might make you want to not fix the auto.
    Depends upon the garage and the honesty and compentency of the mechanics.

    Duane
     
    Duane Hoberg, May 15, 2004
    #8
  9. chibahawk wrote:

    My guess is the wiring harness. In my 164E's case(1975, so all the
    electrical "bits" were stock 240), it was a corroded battery lead.
    It looked good, but when the mechanic finally took the thing off,
    it snapped and there was only 20% of the wires still attached
    underneath the insulation.

    If you can, replace it all with more modern stuff from a
    1990's 240 so that it doesn't corrode or fall apart again.
     
    Joseph Oberlander, May 16, 2004
    #9
  10. chibahawk

    chibahawk Guest

    Thanks again Duane, I'll try the test ,and most likely end up fixing it
    myself. Does'nt sound too difficult (thanks to guys in this group).
    Wish me luck.
     
    chibahawk, May 16, 2004
    #10
  11. chibahawk

    chibahawk Guest

    My 240 is back up and running again.
    The fuel pump relay had burned.
    It was replaced,
    but now,
    While I was looking for the fuel pump relay, I saw a blue plastic case wich
    I thought was the relay I was looking for so I took It out, then after I
    put it back in, the electric locks won't work and when I turn on the radio
    the open door bell signal goes on.
    I can't figure out what went wrong, although I did open the plastic case, I
    must have damaged it.
    Any ideas?
     
    chibahawk, Jun 9, 2004
    #11
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