1986 240 Instrument wiring

Discussion in 'Volvo 240' started by carterbear1, Jan 13, 2007.

  1. carterbear1

    carterbear1 Guest

    I just bought an instrument cluster on ebay, Tach, etc. all allegedly
    work. However, my '86 240 DL has a clock located where the tach is in
    the new cluster. There is a three pin connector on the back of the
    tach, but no three pin plug on my wiring harness. Plus I have an orphan
    red/yellow wire in the harness that supposedly connects to the tach. My
    questions are:
    1) How does one wire the tach?
    2) If and when I get a new (smaller) clock, how do I wire it?
    3) What is the red/white wire in the wiring harness which I assume goes
    to the pin at the lower left (rear view) of the cluster? and last
    4) Does anyone have an understandable wiring diagram for an '86 240? I
    have a Chilton manual and frankly, the wiring schematic looks like
    something I would have drawn in college electronics class - useless!
    Thanks, Carter
     
    carterbear1, Jan 13, 2007
    #1
  2. carterbear1

    Glenn Guest

    The red/white wire is for the tachometer the red/yellow goes to the
    cluster single connector if you hook up the red/white wire to the wrong
    place you will blow out the speedometer head if you can wait until
    Monday night I can exactly tell you the answers you need
    Glenn
    ASE Certified Technician
    Volvo Certified Technician

    --
    "*-344-*Never Forgotten"
    Is for the New York City Firemen who lost their lives on September 11,2001.
    The official count is 343, but there was also a volunteer who lost his life
    aiding in the initial rescue efforts. And I will never forget them as
    long as I live,
    nor should any American.
     
    Glenn, Jan 13, 2007
    #2
  3. carterbear1

    carterbear1 Guest

    Great! I haven't received the new clock yet that I also bought, so will
    wait until then to do this deed. Photo of tach on ebay showed a few
    wires I definitely do not have... Carter
     
    carterbear1, Jan 14, 2007
    #3
  4. Carter,

    I changed out the cluster on a 1987 240 DL - twice actually as the
    speedometer on the first replacement was broken. Get the Bentley
    manual. It is much better than either the Chilton or the Haynes.
    Having looked at several Chilton manuals, as far as I can tell, they're
    all the same with different covers. They are pretty useless. I bought
    my Bentley manual on Ebay for about $10.

    Volvo sold a tach kit that that included a small clock as well. I saw
    them on Ebay but never bought one. I have seen the clocks listed
    seperately as well. The small clock goes to the right of the cluster.
    Remove one of the square hole covers to install it. Or you can take
    the working clock from your original cluster and put it in the new one.
    This is an easy operation. I seem to remember a couple of outher
    small optional gauges as well. You can choose any two as there are two
    holes in the dash for them.

    While you are at it, check out the light bulbs. They tend to burn out
    a lot on Volvos. Since you have 2 clusters, you should have enough
    bulbs to make one good set. At least the cluster is easy to remove and
    install - unlike the ones in my 850s where you have to remove the
    windshield wipers to remove the dash cover - including the passenger
    side airbag.

    If you are changing the cluster because the odometer stopped, you may
    want to go to www.odometergears.com. I have had three Volvos and each
    one outlived its odometer. In each case, it was a little plastic gear
    in the odometer itself. Jeff (Odometer at Odometer Gears Ltd) makes
    these gears and sells them for $25 each. There are two gears in the
    odometer, so it will cost you $50. I mentioned earlier that I changed
    my cluster twice. In both cases, the gears in the replacement clusters
    were broken as well. I have also changed the gears in an Olds van and
    a Saturn SC. It's not just a Volvo problem.

    Terry
     
    Son_Worshipper, Jan 14, 2007
    #4
  5. carterbear1

    Mike F Guest

    Also, that 3 pin connector on the back of the tach is for the remote
    clock. The pins are power, ground and instrument light.

    --
    Mike F.
    Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

    Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
    (But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
     
    Mike F, Jan 16, 2007
    #5
  6. carterbear1

    Ed Guest

    After you remove the instrument cluster, remove the screws for the
    clock. The clock sits on a few pin connectors. Pry the clock free from
    the cluster. Install the Tach using the screws removed for the clock.
    The is a three spade connector on the back of the tach. Fish the cable
    from the new clock through the hole and to the area behind the tach.
    Locate the three rubber sliding wedges with a "T" shaped end view and
    slide them into the matching openings on the periphery of the
    auxilliary
    guage opening that you revealed when you first removed the dummy cover.

    Slide the new clock into position in the hole. Install the clock cable
    connector on the tach. Locate the red-white wire that was previously
    unused in the cable cluster that comes to the combined instrument and
    connect it to the single terminal on the tach.

    Reconnect the rest of the wires to the combined instrument. Install the

    four screws securing the instrument cluster. Fit the new guage cover
    over the new clock and one of the old covers over the other opening.
    Make sure the metal bracket for the dimmer and rear fog light switch is

    under the mounting screws for for the cluster. Refit the left hand
    cover
    and switches.

    thanks Bob
     
    Ed, Jan 19, 2007
    #6
  7. carterbear1

    z Guest


    Done the swap a while ago; I can't get the lighting in the new, little
    clock to be bright enough, my attempts so far have consisted of
    replacing the bulb in the clock with new ones a couple of times. It
    lights, but it's like the location of the bulb vs. the glass is such as
    to not illuminate it as intensely as the real instrument cluster. Any
    ideas?
     
    z, Jan 22, 2007
    #7
  8. carterbear1

    James Sweet Guest


    The little guages never were as bright as the main cluster, but you can
    see them in the dark. You might try soldering a super bright white LED
    and resistor into the base of a dead bulb.
     
    James Sweet, Jan 23, 2007
    #8
  9. carterbear1

    z Guest

    good thought! thanks.
     
    z, Jan 23, 2007
    #9
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