1987 240DL Wagon Strut Replacement

Question:

I've ordered (and received) the strut mounts for this wagon (upper), but was
told by a good friend to replace "everything" if I replaced the upper strut
mounts. Any tips as to exactly "everything" is? Shocks is a given, but is
there anything else I should replace while it's being done?

Thanks!!

Ross McCloud
Norfolk, VA
(email response is fine..)

 

Have the front and rear bushings ever been replaced on your car? When I
replaced my upper strut bushings I replaced ALL the rubber bushings on the
car; in the front and rear of the car. I even replaced the front wheel
bearings.

If you just want to do the front I would replace the control arm bushings
and the lower ball joints, the tie-rod ends and the sway bar bushings. If
you replace the struts/shocks make sure they are a quality shock designed
for a Volvo. Koni, Bilstein, Boge or what came on the car. At least, repack
the front wheel bearings.

If the front and rear bushings have never been replaced, you won't believe
the difference in the ride. It will behave like a new car.

If you have the large bushings in the rear done, make sure the shop has the
correct tool. Most shops will NOT have the tool.

You can view all the various parts here:
http://www.ipdusa.com/ProductsCat.aspx?CategoryID=588&NodeID=14&RootID=629

Avoid polyurethane bushings, they will make the ride very rough. Remember,
you will need a front-end alignment when all the parts are replaced.


Brick_0

 

You should check the condition of the spring seats (if you don't clean
the drains they tend to rust out). If they are in bad shape there are
replacement seats that aren't too difficult to install if you'll have
the strut assembly apart.
Other than that there's nothing that's going to be easier in the "while
you're at it" category and there's no good reason to do the ball joints
or tie rod ends unless there's any play in them (on the older models,
'75-78 IIRC, you needed to take the strut apart to do the ball joints,
but not on an '87).

Bill

Bill