740 Turbo issues

Discussion in 'Volvo 740' started by James Sweet, Jul 11, 2010.

  1. James Sweet

    James Sweet Guest

    Got a couple of issues that I've noticed recently on my '87 740 Turbo.
    Not sure if they're related but both are intermittent. Firstly, it has
    started to idle occasionally at 1200-1400 RPM. I thought it was the idle
    air valve sticking but I've tried tapping on that and it doesn't seem to
    make any difference. Next step is to remove, clean, and bench test that.

    The other issue is that once the engine is all nice and hot, it starts
    to stumble when the boost is up near the top. A friend who was following
    me commented that there was some smoke from the exhaust when this
    occurred. My first thought was a split in some of the plumbing to the
    intercooler, it behaves exactly like that except that it doesn't happen
    when the engine is cold, in fact it may have been going on for some time
    but I didn't notice it until I was going up a mountain pass on a hot day
    with the A/C on.

    Anyone run into either of these issues? Intermittent problems are tough
    because they never seem to happen when I'm in any position to diagnose
    them. Overall the car has been running really well and I got 25-28 mpg
    on various legs of the recent trip.
     
    James Sweet, Jul 11, 2010
    #1
  2. Accumulation of oil in the intercooler is normal so a hot day up hills a
    blow out is ok .I drain mine once a years and get a couple of teaspoons of
    oil out of it .
     
    Jon Robertson, Jul 12, 2010
    #2
  3. James Sweet

    /g Guest

    Hi James. I have an '86 740 turbo intercooler. When I first got mine
    on the
    road a few years ago, it was during summer, and it ran great except at
    higher rpms.
    It would stumble and break up, kind of like a rev limiter when I wound it
    out. I
    tried everything I could think of. Finally, I can't remember which, but I
    either ohmed
    out the mass air sensor, or swapped in another that I had, and that cured
    it. It was
    only doing it when the car was fully hot, or during hot weather. Has been
    fine since,
    although at max rpm, it does break down like it has a rev limiter, but I
    figure that will
    keep me from blowing it up.

    Your mileage! I can only get 22-23 max. I do have the mixture a bit
    rich, because
    I'm afraid to lean it too much. How do you set your mixture? Do you follow
    the
    procedure found in brickboard using the LED?

    good luck, /glenn
     
    /g, Jul 12, 2010
    #3
  4. MAS sounds right. & it does have a limiter\governor.
     
    Richard W Langbauer, Jul 12, 2010
    #4
  5. James Sweet

    Glenn K Guest

    Use a ohm meter between pins 2 & 6 on the maf sensor adjust the screw
    very carefully to 700 ohms
     
    Glenn K, Jul 12, 2010
    #5
  6. James Sweet

    /g Guest

    Thanks Glenn. I just did so. Before adjustment, I had 521 ohms.
    That's
    the setting that gave me the 22-23 mpg. I'll see how it does tomorrow
    to/from
    work. I'll be filling it up at the end of the day, so we'll see what effect
    this has.

    I do drive the car fairly hard, so that accounts for much of the low
    mileage.
    I have a 50 mile commute one way, and run between 75 and 80 mph on the
    highway.

    What else could cause low mileage? Mechanically that is?

    One thing that may be affecting it. I believe that at one point in the
    past, I lost
    my O2 sensor. Due to lack of money, I put in the one from my '91 940 16
    valve.
    My research led me to believe that the same sensor would work on both cars.
    Other than that, the car runs great.

    thanks much, /glenn


    Also, I can't get much more than 6-7 lbs of boost out of it.
     
    /g, Jul 13, 2010
    #6
  7. James Sweet

    James Sweet Guest


    A better solution is to install a wideband O2 sensor to read the actual
    mixture, but those can be a bit spendy.

    The automatic versions get 18-22 mpg but this has a manual gearbox and
    consistently gets 22-26 on average, on one occasion I got 29.8 mpg with
    a light foot on a long fairly flat highway trip.

    I'll try a different air mass meter and see if that makes a difference.
    I'm suspecting something electrical since the problem comes and goes,
    experience tells me that most other problems come and then just keep
    getting worse.
     
    James Sweet, Jul 13, 2010
    #7
  8. James Sweet

    James Sweet Guest



    This was a repeatable puffs of smoke whenever the engine started to
    stumble, which would occur any time I got up into a significant amount
    of boost. It felt exactly like it did the time I had a loose hose clamp,
    except the current symptom only happens when the engine is good and hot.
    I've meticulously maintained this car so there is little oil
    accumulation in the intercooler. I clean out all the intake plumbing
    with Simple Green from time to time.
     
    James Sweet, Jul 13, 2010
    #8
  9. James Sweet

    James Sweet Guest


    I haven't messed with the mixture at all, the car is stock and until
    recently always ran great so I never touched it. Unless something is
    broken, a fuel injection system should never need to be adjusted.
     
    James Sweet, Jul 13, 2010
    #9
  10. James Sweet

    /g Guest

    How do I know if it is a wideband O2 sensor? Or how do I find one?

    Mine has an M46 w/electric OD.

    My symptoms came and went. Mine ran perfect in cool weather (it was
    during summer), but as soon as it got hot out, the problem came back. I do
    remember coorelating it to a particularly hot day.

    I didn't see any smoke in the mirror, but also did not have anyone
    behind me
    to check for smoke, so maybe it did puff, but I didn't see it.

    thanks, /glenn
     
    /g, Jul 13, 2010
    #10
  11. James Sweet

    James Sweet Guest



    If you're not sure, then you don't have a wideband O2 sensor. They were
    not OEM equipment until the mid 2000's or so, and even today many cars
    still use narrowband sensors. Aftermarket wideband systems are available
    and useful for diagnostics & tuning, but rarely really needed.

    I couldn't see any smoke in the mirror either, it was only when I had
    someone behind me that I found out. At any rate I swapped the air mass
    meter tonight and it seems to be running noticeably more smoothly and
    with a bit more power. I noticed when I got back that the main fuel pump
    (which I replaced a couple years ago) was noisy and I can't hear the
    in-tank pump running so I ordered a replacement for that. Fingers
    crossed that this fixes any remaining issues.
     
    James Sweet, Jul 13, 2010
    #11
  12. The idle air control does wear out but often needs a good clean out only.
     
    Jon Robertson, Jul 15, 2010
    #12
  13. James Sweet

    James Sweet Guest



    That's the next step, I've got a cleaned up spare that I'll pop in and
    see if it fixes the fast idle. I swapped the air mass meter and it has
    been running noticeably better, feels more powerful and smoother
    although I haven't had the combination of a hot day and mountain pass to
    really test it.

    The pre-pump is shot as well, I can hear the main pump (which I replaced
    last year) cavitating and no nose from the tank, replacement is on order
    and will be installed shortly.

    Changed some vacuum lines too that were getting ratty, they hadn't split
    yet but can't hurt to have nice new ones in there.
     
    James Sweet, Jul 15, 2010
    #13
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