84 240 Power Window Failure

I have had this Volvo for going on two years now. When I bought it,
only the driver's side front and passenger's rear windows worked, the
driver's rear was intermittent at best, eventually becoming unusable.
So, two years with just two windows working with little problem
getting them to go up or down.

Yesterday, both windows refused to work...and of course they are stuck
down. This is where the weirdness starts. The wires running through
the door to the switches seems to be in good shape. I check the fuses
and replace the two associated with the windows even thought they seem
to be fine...this does nothing. I take the driver side door panel off
and get at the goodies; I unplug all of the connections to the window
switches and clean the connections as best I can. I plug things back
together and they work...for like two minutes tops: up and down once
and they are stuck down again.

I do some research and find that the switch itself can be taken apart,
cleaned and put back with good results. I decide to do this. I clean
one, reassemble and go to the car for a "proof of concept" trial.
Sure enough it works, for a tiny amount of time to raise the driver's
window maybe and inch. I clean another one and try the same thing,
similar result...maybe half and inch this time. I clean the other two
and try all switches on the driver side with no result what-so-ever. I
plug everything back in and try it in multiple combinations with no
movement on any window.

I have since dug the window relay out from behind my dash and I hope
it's bad because I fear that it may be a bigger problem. Is it true
that all the power for all the windows runs through the driver's door?
What equipment would I need to test the window motors individually?

I have read here extensively but never posted, I would love to not
have to take this into a dealer or repair shop. I have the will to
fix it myself (in other words I am fairly broke), any help would be
greatly appreciated.

Drew Jones

 

If you have an old cigarette light powered device that no longer works,
you can use the cord from that, just use a couple of clip leads. Keep
in mind that the lighter doesn't work in the key off position. And make
sure the bare ends of the wires don't touch each other, or anything
metal.

You'll see a red wire that jumps to all switch positions on the driver's
door panel. This wire should have power (ignition on). The black wire
that jumps around should be grounded. If not, check the harness where
it flexes near the door hinges. If have both power and ground, you can
jump these to the black and red that go the the driver's door window
motor. If it goes up when connected one way, and down when connected
the other, then the only thing that can be bad is the switch. You can
then clean and connect each switch into this socket, and when they make
the window go both up and down, you can move onto the next one.

 

Thanks Mike, that is what I needed to know. Your help has been great.
I will be trying your methods tommorrow...wish me luck. I will be
sure to let you know how it goes. Thanks again

Drew Jones