850 brakes

Discussion in 'Volvo 850' started by Roy Bolton, Nov 9, 2005.

  1. Roy Bolton

    Roy Bolton Guest

    Anyone any ideas and comments about this one. 1996 volvo 850 2 litre 20
    valve. Sent it into the mechanic, brakes very spongy becoming harder with
    the next press of the pedal. Mechanic bled the brakes (60 quid, does this
    sound reasonable?) but pedal still low and although less spongy and more
    efficient depressing about a third of the pedal travel but still harder on
    the second press. Mechanic said it needs new discs as they are warped (I
    will agree with this as there is the classic symptoms of a warped disk but
    not severe). He says once the discs are replaced with new pads they should
    be as I want them. Also he says that the calipers become 'lazy' with age and
    they should also be replaced. In other words nearly all of the system
    replaced except master cylinder, pipes vacuum and abs unit. I always
    understood the 850 brakes were exceptional, they certainly were when i
    bought the car 2 years ago. A comment on another chat forum suggested that
    since the disks are warped, that they would push the piston back into the
    caliper, thus making the first press feel 'soggy'. Also, anyone know
    anything about drop links, symptoms of wear and replacement (how easy etc?
    Any comments and suggestions gratefully accepted. Sorry for the longish
    post! - Roy
     
    Roy Bolton, Nov 9, 2005
    #1
  2. I had the same problem last year on my 1996 850. On the first pedal pressure
    the
    pedal travelled far and I felt that there was little resistance and on the
    second pedal
    pressure it was ok. Found that my front disc's was below limit in one front
    side and
    this was caused by a slightly hanging (lazy) caliber. Changed the front
    calipers and
    the front discs and everything went like new again.
     
    Per Groth Ludvigsen, Nov 13, 2005
    #2
  3. If the rotor is warped, it pushes the pistons back causing more pedal
    travel. Wear does not cause this since the pistons should stay just
    slightly above the surface no matter where that surface is if there is
    no wobble in the rotor. Of course air in the line will cause sponginess
    but that usually doesn't go away when you pump the brakes.

    By the way, the main causes of warped rotors are improper torquing of
    the lug nuts and high speed stops.
     
    Stephen Henning, Nov 14, 2005
    #3
  4. many many years ago when I drove cabs for a guy who used to swap around pads
    and use retread tyres I had brake problems too .He employed a partimer on
    the week end who flogged the car and the brakes were bad news on Monday .So
    I found heating them up a bit and cooling them down slowly seems to remove
    the issues ,he was an ex cop ex navy and ex security guy so he pushed the
    cab hard .I owned several cabs new tyres (safer and cheaper in the long run)
    quality brakes and if a part timer warped them a bit I made sure I heated
    them up and slowly cooled them then if needs be had them machined .Keep the
    brakes off the hot spot by just moving slowly at the lights just a few
    inches so there is no extremly hot spot to warp them dont just stop and turn
    the motor off the brakes will super heat one spot and problems will occur
    ..$60 quid to bleed brakes wow thats high .
     
    John Robertosn, Dec 14, 2005
    #4
Ask a Question

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments (here). After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.