940 Brakes

I seem to neeed new front pads. Is there any thing unusual about a 94 940
turbo wagons front brakes or is it a straightfoward 2 bolts pop the caliper,
compress the piston, reassemble?

Thanks

--Steve

 

i did my 940t sedan...it was pretty straight fwd...
i had a bit of a problem compressing the pistions
back into position, once the old pads were removed..
but, i think we popped the cap and let a bit of fluid
drain...then replaced....1st time doing the job, i would
est 1 hr...2nd time 1/2 that.....

 

Thanks!
No weird size torx or other nightmares!

 

steve...i don't think so, but...you never know w/a volvo...
best get a set of 5 torx heads @ home depot for $5 bucks
or so...you will need them sometime anyway...i think the
brakes were all standard hexes.....keep us posted on your
progress...

 

That is correct. It is very straightforward. After doing it a few times I
can now replace the front pads in under 15 mins.

My Father-In-Law gave me a handheld brake piston compressor, which helps.

Be sure to remove the brake reservoir cap and be sure it doesn't overflow
when you compress the pistons back into the calipers.

If the rotors are well worn then replace those at the same time, and use new
caliper bolts. It only adds a few minutes to the job.

NCMan
1994 940 Turbo Wagon, 175000 miles
1992 940 Sedan, 60000 miles (gone now)

 

On many cars I use an aluminum C clamp to push teh pistons back. BE
SURE to remove only ONE set of pads at a time (example: only remove
the pads on the left wheel, finish that side, then remove the pads on
the other side). The same goes for calipers that have pistons on the
inside and outside (more rare I think), or cars with multiple pistons
on one side of th caliper (like on some sports cars and motorcycles).
It is becasue when you compress the piston into the caliper on the
right side caliper it will pressurize the system and force the piston
out of the caliper on the left side and pop it out of the caliper.

With ABS systems (and it is actually better with all systems) when
pressing the piston back into the caliper, it is best to open the
bleeder and allow the fluid pressed out to go into a container (use a
hose). This keeps old fluid and dirt from being forced back into the
system. Be sure to refill the reservoir before pumping the brakes back
up.


__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"

 

I was just about to suggest the same thing. A mechanic relative of
mine mentioned it to me a few years ago. It makes sense to me, You
should change the brake fluid every few years anyway. He mentioned
having to replace a master cylinder or two,(or was that me, I forget)
because he pushed the brake fluid back thru the master cylinder into the
reservoir.

 

Actually the recommendation from Volvo is to replace brake fluid every two
years or less if it deteriorates too rapidly with heavy mileage.

All the best, Peter.

700/900/90 Register Keeper,
Volvo Owners Club (UK).

 

Master cylinder failure of an older master cylinder is often caused by
bleeding the brakes using the pedal. Ridges of corrosion in the
cylinder build up just beyond the normal range of travel. Opening the
bleeder and pumping the pedal allows a much linger range of movement
and drags the seals over the corrosion. The seals are almist instantly
damaged and often the fluid leaks past the piston and eventually fills
the MC's side of the vacuum brake booster.
__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"

 

It's pretty simple, IIRC there's only one bolt and then the caliper
flips up. Do check the lube on the caliper slides though, there's rubber
boots over the assembly, it should slide freely back and forth allowing
the caliper to float and wear the pads evenly.

 

I being so tight use a "G" clamps a small one slowly does it .Or if they
havent been bled for a while I open the nipple as I clamp back the pistons
...