I seem to neeed new front pads. Is there any thing unusual about a 94 940 turbo wagons front brakes or is it a straightfoward 2 bolts pop the caliper, compress the piston, reassemble? Thanks --Steve
i did my 940t sedan...it was pretty straight fwd... i had a bit of a problem compressing the pistions back into position, once the old pads were removed.. but, i think we popped the cap and let a bit of fluid drain...then replaced....1st time doing the job, i would est 1 hr...2nd time 1/2 that.....
steve...i don't think so, but...you never know w/a volvo... best get a set of 5 torx heads @ home depot for $5 bucks or so...you will need them sometime anyway...i think the brakes were all standard hexes.....keep us posted on your progress...
That is correct. It is very straightforward. After doing it a few times I can now replace the front pads in under 15 mins. My Father-In-Law gave me a handheld brake piston compressor, which helps. Be sure to remove the brake reservoir cap and be sure it doesn't overflow when you compress the pistons back into the calipers. If the rotors are well worn then replace those at the same time, and use new caliper bolts. It only adds a few minutes to the job. NCMan 1994 940 Turbo Wagon, 175000 miles 1992 940 Sedan, 60000 miles (gone now)
On many cars I use an aluminum C clamp to push teh pistons back. BE SURE to remove only ONE set of pads at a time (example: only remove the pads on the left wheel, finish that side, then remove the pads on the other side). The same goes for calipers that have pistons on the inside and outside (more rare I think), or cars with multiple pistons on one side of th caliper (like on some sports cars and motorcycles). It is becasue when you compress the piston into the caliper on the right side caliper it will pressurize the system and force the piston out of the caliper on the left side and pop it out of the caliper. With ABS systems (and it is actually better with all systems) when pressing the piston back into the caliper, it is best to open the bleeder and allow the fluid pressed out to go into a container (use a hose). This keeps old fluid and dirt from being forced back into the system. Be sure to refill the reservoir before pumping the brakes back up. __ __ Randy & \ \/ /alerie's \__/olvos '90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate "Shelby" & "Kate"
I was just about to suggest the same thing. A mechanic relative of mine mentioned it to me a few years ago. It makes sense to me, You should change the brake fluid every few years anyway. He mentioned having to replace a master cylinder or two,(or was that me, I forget) because he pushed the brake fluid back thru the master cylinder into the reservoir.
Actually the recommendation from Volvo is to replace brake fluid every two years or less if it deteriorates too rapidly with heavy mileage. All the best, Peter. 700/900/90 Register Keeper, Volvo Owners Club (UK).
Master cylinder failure of an older master cylinder is often caused by bleeding the brakes using the pedal. Ridges of corrosion in the cylinder build up just beyond the normal range of travel. Opening the bleeder and pumping the pedal allows a much linger range of movement and drags the seals over the corrosion. The seals are almist instantly damaged and often the fluid leaks past the piston and eventually fills the MC's side of the vacuum brake booster. __ __ Randy & \ \/ /alerie's \__/olvos '90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate "Shelby" & "Kate"
It's pretty simple, IIRC there's only one bolt and then the caliper flips up. Do check the lube on the caliper slides though, there's rubber boots over the assembly, it should slide freely back and forth allowing the caliper to float and wear the pads evenly.
I being so tight use a "G" clamps a small one slowly does it .Or if they havent been bled for a while I open the nipple as I clamp back the pistons ...