940 turbo volvo died on the way home......

Discussion in 'Volvo 940' started by snpboy, Aug 21, 2006.

  1. snpboy

    snpboy Guest

    Hi everyone my name is kasoma and i am new here. i am having a problem with
    my 93 940 turbo wagon. i was returning from the county fair and while
    driving about 55mph it suddenly died on me.i waited a couple of minutes
    and it started up again. it did this abot three more times and then was
    ok... but i kept it under 35. while looking under the hood today i noticed
    a fresh puddle iof antifreeze comming from where the head and the timing
    cover meet. this car was serviced by a local dealer called bruce cox
    before i bought it in march. does anyone know what the problem is before i
    take it to get it fixed? thanks!!!kasoma duplantis
     
    snpboy, Aug 21, 2006
    #1
  2. snpboy

    Opie Guest

    The two things may or may not be related (coolant loss and engine dying).
    For the engine dying, it may be the fuel relay. In the spring mine (1994 940
    Turbo wagon) did the same thing yours did and died multiple times on both
    interstate and secondary roads. I replaced the fuel relay myself in my
    driveway with a new unit from Volvo ($50) and ~20-30 minutes of time, mainly
    disassembly and reassembly of the center console.

    I don't know about the collant leak, mine hasn't had that happen. If the
    engine was overheated before you bought it, then the head might be warped,
    or the gasket cracked, or something else. Take off the timing cover if you
    can, and see if you can find the leak, then go from there.

    NCMan
     
    Opie, Aug 21, 2006
    #2
  3. snpboy

    zencraps Guest

    today i noticed
    Not sure exactly where on the engine this is, could you please be more
    specific?

    Hopefully it is nothing more than a weeping thermostat housing gasket,
    but it could be a warped head with failed head gasket.
     
    zencraps, Aug 21, 2006
    #3
  4. The 2 problems are definitely unrelated.

    Coolant issue:
    Check to see if there are signs of coolant in the oil or oil in the
    coolant....sure positive on head gasket failure. If not, look closer
    around the water pump, they are bad to leak at the seal on the top
    where it meets the head, especially on the B230FT. You may just need a
    new seal and reinstall. Make sure you pry up on the water pump while
    you tighten the bolts to ensure a good future seal. Check all the
    hoses closely, and If you still think it's a blown head gasket and you
    have no oil/coolant swapping, and no white smoke, do a compression
    check, both wet and dry. If all are within 15% the head gasket is
    fine.

    Stalling:
    The stalling issue is 1000% fuel pump relay, it is the big white one
    behind your ashtray. 90% of the time the relay itself is not bad, just
    solder joints old and broken from 15 years of heating/cooling rapidly.
    When it restarts after the relay cools down (solder joints contract),
    this is always the case. Pull the relay, carefully pry it apart, and
    examine the solder joints. I'll bet you find that they have hairline
    cracks in a ring all the way around one or two of the joints. Pull out
    your trusty soldering iron and 'reflow' the solder joints to renew the
    failed connection. Voila!

    -Aaron
     
    mountainvolvoguy, Aug 21, 2006
    #4
  5. wouldn't it "sputter" a bit if it is
    fuel related? vs. a sudden stop...
    which would be more electrical
    related..??...
     
    ~^ beancounter ~^, Aug 21, 2006
    #5
  6. snpboy

    snpboy Guest

    well that looks like it solves one problem(dieing) but the coolant los
    looks likes it coming from either the hose or the to of the head. is it
    hard to change the water pump seal? our dodge crapavan had the timing belt
    and the water pump some how connected and it cost a bunch of money to
    fix.thanks

    Kasoma Duplantis
     
    snpboy, Aug 22, 2006
    #6
  7. snpboy

    zencraps Guest

    Ah, sounds like the rubber seal between the top of the water pump and
    the cylinder head has failed: pretty common.

    Easy to fix, need not remove cylinder head, just the pump itself.
     
    zencraps, Aug 22, 2006
    #7
  8. it definitely doesn't sputter when the fuel pump or relay fail. when
    fuel pressure is lost, like when the pump loses power, it only takes a
    few seconds for the injectors to clear the fuel rail. try pulling your
    fuel pump relay while driving at highway speeds, it will die as if you
    turned off the key.
     
    mountainvolvoguy, Aug 22, 2006
    #8
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