'96 850 Flashing UpArrow (again)

Last year, my 1996 850 experienced the dreaded flashing up-arrow. The code
reader returned "Solenoid B Malfunction." It kicked on every few days and
the car limped around in third gear until I reset the code, after which it
worked fine for a couple of days. My mechanic and the local tranny show
refused to touch it and the Volvo dealer declared it a $3K new transmission
job. I had the dealer power flush the transmission and, much to his
disappointment, the problem went away and has not occured since.

So it was fine for 8 months.

Now, I've started getting the flashing up arrow again. Only this time it
doesn't switch into limp-home-in-third mode and it doesn't set any codes (at
least none readable by my $100 Actron aftermarket reader). The flashing
arrow self-clears after the car cools off and is restarted 3 or 5 times.

Anyone know what's going on?

Should I rush to the dealer next time it comes on and get them to read it
before it self-clears? Are there tranny codes that they can see with VADIS
that are invisible to my Actron reader?

Does the no-code-self-clearing-flashing-arrow mean something specific?

Is it overheating? Do I have a problem with the pump or radiator? Do I
need a new radiator or aftermarket cooler?

Maybe it's overheating and that burnt the fluid and led to the "Solenoid B
malfunction" which was fixed with new fluid. Maybe it's fried the fluid
again?

Thanks, as always,

-RL

 

in the engine compartment on the left fenderwell should be a small black box
with a single wire that plugs into what appears to be a holder after
removing the cover you should find a box with i believe 6 empty holes in it
put the wire into the number 1 hole then push the small button for 2 secs..
you should get a 3 digit code flashes brolen up buy spaces for every 2 sec
push of the button you will retrive 1 code after all codes are displayed you
can document here all code numbers and i can tell you what the ecu is saying
by code definition. the last 850 i saw this sort of problem with actually
had a burnt circuit on the back of the dashboard causing the problem.... let
me know if this helps you in any way

 

You need a VST (Volvo Scan Tool). The dealer should have one (of
course) and some independent garages will have one as well. And you
don't need to drop everything and run there while the light is on, the
code(s) will stay stored for quite a while, even after the light goes
off. As to what your problem is, it's anybody's guess, until the codes
are read.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

 

Or after market reader here:

http://www.onboarddiagnostics.co.uk/volfcr/index.htm

 

<snip>

I have a 95 and can read the codes that way (I can get a trans
light and code if I shift out of Drive into 2nd in Winter Mode),
but I think 96 and up you may have to have a scan tool. Anyway, the
instructions and codes are here if you can read them yourself. The
box in question is up front on the passenger beside the windshield
washer filler.

http://www.volvospeed.com/CheckEngine.php

http://www.volvospeed.com/Repair/ElectronicTransmissionSocketA1.php

 

I meant to say "up front on the passenger side beside the
windshield washer"

 

I think the 95's were the last to have this connector.

On mine it was the "PNP switch" which mounts around the selector shaft
on top of the trans. One way to see if this switch is failing is to
cycle the lever through it's full range 5-10 times before starting, to
wipe the contacts, If this keeps the arrow light out longer than
usual, (assuming it goes out), then it's probably the switch.

I changed mine, but had to make my own positioning jig, The hardest
part was removing the cable connector from the watterproof housing
that it shares with something else.

To reply, please remove one letter from each side of "@"
Spammers are VERMIN. Please kill them all.

 

Thank you all for your advice but, alas, it is a '96 and thus requires the
ODB-II scan tool. Worse yet, my aftermarket ODB-II scan tool shows no codes
so it must be one of the double-secret volvo-specific
only-the-dealer-can-read-them-codes.

I'm due for an oil-change. Maybe if I buy an extra-special $100 volvo
dealer oil change they'll read out the codes for me (for a nominal fee, I'm
sure).

Grrrr...

 

The thing is it's NOT an OBD-II code, that's the problem. It's just
read in the same way, with a tool that understand the "language", which
is not part of the government mandated OBD-II set. Generally the OBD-II
codes are only the ones that turn the "Check Engine" light on.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

 

I also had the dreaded flashing up arrow.....code said that the RPM sensor
on the auto box was not sending a signal. Managed to get both the sensor and
gearbox ECU from a wreck and this worked. No problems so far (he says with
his fingers crossed) Volvo were not very helpful and potentially
expensive......so I went to the breakers yard,and got lucky.
It might be worth checking that oil is going through the radiator, it could
be blocked, this may account for the 'arrow' disappearing when the car cools
down. Are the radiator cooling fins full of debris??

ttfn.......Alistair

 

I suspected overheating as well. I usually only drive the car 10 miles at a
time, but the flashing arrow usually comes on when I drive for 20-30 miles.

I inspected the radiator fins, hoses, etc. and they all look intact and
clean. Also, the dealer power-flushed the transmission a year ago. Would
they have connected in series with the radiator and flushed it as well?

How would y'all recommend I verify flow through the radiator?

Thanks, as always,

 

I would do this by using a small compressor (pressure turned right down) or
a tyre pump. Take off the two connectors going to the radiator keep them as
high as you can so fluid does not syphon from the gearbox (you will get some
loss of fluid so catch this in your wife's best fruit bowl) Apply the air to
one of the ports and see if there is any flow out the other. Do not use high
pressure, you dont want to rupture the radiator.

ttfn.....Alistair

 

If you disconnect the lower hose at the radiator, then have an assistant
start and idle the car. The fluid should come out the rad quite
quickly. Turn the car off so you don't run the pump dry. Make sure you
have a new metal clip and the 2 seals for reassembly.
But really, you have no idea that it's overheating, and I would put the
chances that it is at less than 0.1%. Just because there's a problem
that shows up after warmup doesn't mean there's overheating. Read the
code(s).

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)