A Dummy's Guide to Replacing an In-Tank Fuel Pump

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by tands, Apr 5, 2006.

  1. tands

    tands Guest

    I've posted a few threads recently, trying to pin down what's wrong
    with my 940 wagon - threatening to stall on a regular basis. Various
    suggestions about AMM, fuel pump relay, etc. However, I failed to
    mention one aspect of the initial flare up of this fault (duh!):

    The afternoon that this problem first arose, the fuel gauge had just
    given up. I'd thought this was just a dashboard fault and ignored it,
    thinking we'd carry on driving watching the mileage and guessing the
    fuel level. It was that afternoon that the car started to threaten to
    stall.

    Reading another thread to day, the lights have come on!
    http://groups.google.co.uk/group/al...940+in-tank+fuel+pump&rnum=7#9ff022eee148ec37

    There has been a whine from under the bonnet for a long time, but I've
    never really investigated it as there's not seemed to be a problem.
    Now, reading the thread I've referenced above, I discover that the
    whine could well point to a faulty in-tank fuel pump. If that pump has
    now completely failed, I guess that would explain why the car is
    threatening to stall all the time.

    So, an in-tank fuel pump is just £36 from German&Swedish and, not
    being flush with cash, I'm hoping to fit it myself to save the labour
    charge. Am I being stupid, or is this job do-able?

    If so, can someone please outline the basic pointers and give me
    something of a dummy's guide to replacing an in-tank fuel pump?

    Thanks

    Tim
     
    tands, Apr 5, 2006
    #1
  2. The directions depend upon what kind of a vehicle you have. I saw them
    replace mine on a 240 wagon. They opened the floor area in the back
    until they got down to the top of the fuel tank. There you could see
    where the fuel pump was mounted.

    The symptoms were that the car would run OK until you started up a
    slight grade, then it would cut out. It would go on the level or down
    hill but not up hill. A local mechanic diagnosed it promptly and fixed
    it in a couple minutes.

    Obviously avoiding sparks and keeping dirt out of the tank are
    essential.
     
    Stephen Henning, Apr 5, 2006
    #2
  3. tands

    zencraps Guest

  4. Years ago, I replaced the intank pump on my 1976 262 (awesome car, by the
    way. Too bad they don't make them like that anymore). For years
    thereafter, I was perpetually terrified that the nuts on the wiring
    connections to the pump would wiggle loose and a spark would happen and blow
    me to smithereens. I wished they had just pigtailed the pump or that I had
    coated the nuts with something (RTV?) to keep them from wiggling loose.
    Then again, the car worked for many years and never exploded so perhaps I
    was worried for no reason.
     
    Robert Lutwak, Apr 6, 2006
    #4
  5. tands

    User Guest

    This is a good read:

    http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-
    900/FuelSystem.htm#FuelPumpandSenderReplacement

    or

    http://tinyurl.com/r8u47

    Bob
     
    User, Apr 6, 2006
    #5
  6. tands

    tands Guest

    Thank you all for your tips and the links to other sites for reference.
    The note about fire risk put me off attempting the job. So I bought the
    part and took the car along to my mechanic to be fitted. An lo and
    behold, as they prepped to get into the tank, they discovered that the
    wiring that feeds the in-tank fuel pump had been disconnected,
    somewhere in that boot-side pocket at the back of the car.

    My wife and I really are the stupidest Volvo owners around and our
    mechanic really is the most honest I can ever imagine finding. He
    didn't even charge us an hour's labour for wasting his time.
     
    tands, Apr 18, 2006
    #6
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