adding a tach tot eh 240.. Wiring? Clock?

I have received the large tachometer to replace the factory large
clock on the 240 (and the small clock to go tot eh right of the
cluster). Can someone help me with the wiring. The back of the tach
has male spade connectors as shown here:




| |
[?] +58 | | -31 <--- {ground, -12]

____
+30 <--- [+12v, hot, unswitched]




1 <--- [low voltage switched, to coil]
| |
| |




From what I gather, a single lead should be connected to one of the
"1" terminals- it should be a red and white wire. I think I found
that.

Bracketed info above is mine from what I could decipher from the
diagram in the manual. But if someone has the color codes of the wires
that go to these terminals, where the connectors are, and what they
look like, or any other information leading to th arrest and
connection of said suspects, it would be appreciated.

Also, how would the aux clock then be wired? It came with a short,
three wire harness with a three-connector bakelite plug a tthe end of
it.







Randy "" G.
http://www.EspressoMyEspresso.com


__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"

 

There's a wire back there that plugs into the single spade, I think it is
red & white. The small clock plugs into a connector on the back of the tach
using that 3 wire cable.

 

So the original cable that WAS connected to the original clock is no
longer used? That explains EVERYTHING! Thank you!!!!!



__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"

 

Since I started this thread (with no little amount of frustration as
seen in the mis-typed subject), and for the sake of the archives, I
will end it with this:


When replacing the large clock with a tachometer (and possibly adding
a small clock at the same time) the following should help you out:

1) Disconnect the battery.

2) Remove the instrument cluster. This will vary by year, from about
'85 on you remove the headlight and instrument dimmer knobs (they pull
off) and then carefully pry out the plastic bezel. Pop out the two
blank instrument covers to the right of the cluster. You will see the
4 screws, two to each side. These are all that hold the cluster in
place. make note of the position of the metal bracket on the left, and
disconnect the wires for the rear fog lamp switch.

3) Pull the cluster forward and disconnect all the wires on the back.
They only go back one way and generally in one place, so don't worry
to much.

4) Disconnect speedometer cable. For cars without speedometer cables,
take care when removing the electronic, 3-wire lead to the
speedometer. It is held in place with a retainer clip (white plastic).
Pull the clip backwards (if it is still in place) and then pull the
connector off.

5) With the instrument assembly out of the dash, turn it over in your
lap and remove the screws holding the clock in place and pull clock
out. It is a tight fit so CAREFULLY prying with a small screwdriver
and pressing the clock set button from the front may help. DO NOT
DAMAGE THE CIRCUIT BOARD!

6) Put the clock-set plug in place. The small end (without the rubber
washer) goes into the clear plastic face of the cluster from inside
the cluster.

7) Insert the tach being sure that the set hole plug is in place and
use the screws that held the original clock to hold the tach. DO NOT
over-tighten.

8) If you also received a small clock, place the three rubber
retainers into the slots in one of the two blank instrument openings
to the right of the instrument cluster. The ratchety face points
inwards, into the hole.

9) Thread the clock's cable into the chosen instrument hole, then
insert the clock, engaging the tab at the bottom of the clock in the
little slot in the dash.

10) Replace the instruments and reconnect them. In the cluster of
wires that were connected to the instruments there is a white wire
with red stripes. This connects to either of the two spade terminals
on the bottom of the tach (marked "1" in the plastic on the back of
the tach). The cable that came with your little clock connects to the
three spade terminals on the back of the tachometer. The cable for the
original clock is no longer used and can be tie wrapped under the
dash, out of the way if you wish. replace all the other wires and
connectors on the back of the cluster (note that the yellow and the
yellow-white wires have different sized connectors and only go back
from whence they came). Be sure to fully seat them, but do not force
them! Use care when reconnecting the electronic speedometer wires and
replace the retainer.

11) The rest of the assembly is in reverse order of removal.


__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"

 

There's a cable attached to the original clock? On the cars I've dealt with
the clock has been powered from the cluster circuit board.

 

I have nothing to which to compare, but, the original clock had two
intergral wires, a brown and a black, that jumpered from the clock to
the clock (for lack of a better explanation). There was another
connector- a 4 wire plastic with 4 female spade clips in it. It
connected to the top area of the back of the clock as shown in the
previous post of mine in this thread. FWIW- a 1990 245 DL.


__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"

 

_____
Randy,

I confirm the installation details and the electrical connections:
1) The large tach is powered by the cluster circuit board, and the pins
on the back of this instrument are fed through a circuit board inside it
2) The pins at the back of the tach are for additional instruments that
can be mounted in the top of the dash to the right of the main cluster
3) Pin out of the plastic connector looking at the back of the tach is
as follows (the markings on the back of the plug in my harness is not
relevant and appears to be incorrect):
+30 = 12 VDC, unswitched arriving from fuse #8
-31 = ground
+58 = back light bulb supply from the dimmer rheostat
1 = red/white wire to coil also marked with the digit 1 (this
wire is usually present in 240 series Volvos even if you did not have a
tach installed)

My current 1981 240DL project wagon is wired exactly as above. The
wiring diagram in the Haynes manual corresponds as well. In my 1989
240DL sedan, i added a small tach and later, a small voltage indicator.
I had to tap into the green and black wires for the back lighting and
ground. I obtained the sense voltage from the electrical connector on
the left fender (by the headlight switch) via a small fuse and a new
wire. The voltmeter draws about 25 mA of current and is always "ON".
This is a better location for the voltage reading, not one of the fuses
in the fuse block.

Regards / John

 

Volvo made some interesting changes to the 240 in the early 90s, I haven't
delved too deep into one that new so I'm not certain what all they did but
that must be one of them.

 

Wow- thanks. I had a half hour before work yesterday morning... spent ten minutes reading this, and twenty breaking back into my dash and wiring the gauges up - absolute success, thank you so much!