AMM - more Q's

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Randy G., Sep 15, 2005.

  1. Randy G.

    Randy G. Guest

    I am about to order an AMM but thought I would try a few more things
    and ge some 'final' opinions from you folks. The cheapest rebuilt is
    about $160, and for that much I can do a lot of typing! ;-)

    I wanted to isolate the effects of the IAC valve and related parts to
    be sure that wasn't the problem, so here's what I did this afternooon
    and the results.

    AS IS - In stock configuration the car starts well, revs to 2000rpm
    and then drops and stalls when cold. After a few attempts it warms
    enough that when started will rev to 2000 RPM, drop to well below 500
    (varying from 150 to 300 RPM or so) and then will return to around
    normal idle, but idling very rough. With a medium-rapid pressing and
    releasing the accelerator I raise the RPMs to 3000 and I can hold it
    there by continuing to oscilate the accelerator (indicates no exhaust
    blockage?), but it will not hold the higher RPMs on its own (a symptom
    of a lean condition IMO).

    TEST1 - I removed the IAC valve, and reconnected the wire and the
    hoses. I did the OBD socket 2, "3 presses test" to cycle the injectors
    and the IAC, and while blowing into the IAC in hose I could verify
    that the IAC is functioning, although this is not at all an accurate
    test as there is no way to judge if the correct volume of air can pass
    due to the bends in the hoses and their cumulative resistance to air.

    TEST1b- Previously I had run the motor and pinched off the idle air
    hose and the motor immediately stopped showing that it is indeed
    running the motor at idle.

    TEST1c- Disconnecting the IAC electrical plug causes the motor to
    immediately stall.

    TEST2 - I removed the IAC hoses and plugged the idle-air intake metal
    tube on the intake manifold, in essence making the car in a state as
    if the IAC didn't exist, although it was connected. The car cranked
    but would not run or start unless the accelerator was depressed, but
    once I did that it kept running and it ran MUCH better and noticeably
    smoother (It felt like it was running richer IMO). Same fuel, less air
    I guess. (AMM telling the computer that less air is passing its way
    than is actually the case, so the computer injects less fuel. thus a
    lean condition?- I am guessing.)

    a 1-2-1 "bad/missing signal to/from AMM" code was set. This seems to
    indicate that there is more going on with the AMM and the 1-2-1 code
    than would meet the eye. There is some relationship between what the
    AMM 'sees' and what the computer thinks it should see, and if it
    doesn't agree within a pre-programmed range it sets the code.- another
    guess on my part.

    TEST3 - I did the above test but did not plug the idle air intake
    pipe on the manifold. It idled rougher and fast, but kept running on
    its own. Same 1-2-1 code set. I am thinking that it made the motor so
    lean with the extra air that the O2 sensor knew something was wrong
    and the computer tried to adjust. A wild guess.

    I did clear the codes if set between tests and verified a 1-1-1 before
    continuing.

    So if you have anything to add, or have any other tests I can try,
    PLEASE fell free to chime in. If nothing else we are gathering data
    points for the next idiot.. errr... Volvo home mechanic to use if they
    have the same problem... ;-)

    I can see where the AMM is probalby the most often part replaced
    unnecessarily- it's a good guess with a high profit margen and it
    takes very little effort to change it.



    __ __
    Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
    \__/olvos
    '90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
    "Shelby" & "Kate"
     
    Randy G., Sep 15, 2005
    #1
  2. Randy G.

    jigga Guest

    Junkyards are full of twenty dollar amm's and Ebay is full of fourty dollar
    amm's.
    Did you check wiring to amm ?
    Wiggle test ?
     
    jigga, Sep 16, 2005
    #2
  3. Randy G.

    Randy G. Guest

    On on my way to the yard tomorrow to see if they ahve any 240s. If nt
    i need to get on the phone as the next nearest is over 90 miles away..

    I have disconnected and reconnected the AMM a lot of times, as well as
    cleaning the contacts. I also disconnected it and the car wnet into
    "limp" mode, and when it was connected it went back to normal. The IAC
    seems to be operating (used a bypass hose today and with teh valve
    "floating" but connected I watched the valve as it opened and closed-
    mine is the two wire version and does so slowly and without
    vibrating).



    __ __
    Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
    \__/olvos
    '90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
    "Shelby" & "Kate"
     
    Randy G., Sep 16, 2005
    #3
  4. Randy G.

    Randy G. Guest


    For the end of the story, see the thread:
    It's RUNNING!


    __ __
    Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
    \__/olvos
    '90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
    "Shelby" & "Kate"
     
    Randy G., Sep 17, 2005
    #4
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