B28F to B28E

Does anyone know what parts are needed to upgrade a B28F to a B28E? Is it
just the fuel distributor and the Control Pressure Regulator that are
different? Thanks, Rick

 

I'd be curious to know all the details as well, but in the case of the
redblocks the camshaft was different, compression ratio slightly higher, as
well as the E had no catalyst.

 

Right, camshafts and compression ratio were different as well.
Honestly, this upgrade will not be worth the trouble.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

 

You would be better off obtaining the same V6 from a Renault or Peugeot as
they were available with turbo.

Cheers, Peter.

 

Were they available in north america? I know we got Renaults and Peugeots
for a few years but they're pretty rare, I've only ever seen one that had a
turbo.

 

Do you have any Deloreans still? They used the same motor.

Cheers, Peter.

 

I've got a good running B28F in the car now. I think I can find most parts
at wrecker yards if I only knew what parts I needed. I'd be willing to pay
the shipping from the UK or Australia. The Deloreans have the same setup I
have right now, KJet with Lambda Sond. There is a UK garage that will mod
a Delorean to B28E specs without doing cams/pistons. They replace the
fuel distributor, CPR and curve the ignition. I'm just trying to verify
what parts I need (by part number)to make the F into an E. Thanks all!

 

If they're not touching the cams or the pistons, they're not making the
motor a B28E, period. More power maybe, but it's still not E spec.. nor
is it going to be as significant an amount of power as a cam/piston swap.

 

I've seen 2 or 3 of them over the last several years, they're pretty rare
cars though. Same basic motor, but with enhancements that improved cylinder
head oiling and performance.

 

Right, when building a motor start with compression ratio, valve
size/porting, camshaft profile, then the fuel and ignition are tuned to
suit, not the other way around. If you can't get the air in and out,
ignition and fuel aren't going to make much difference.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

 

I appreciate all the input and see what you're saying. If one was silly
enough to want to attempt this, what components/parts am I looking to get?
Pistons, cams, valves or complete heads, intake manifold, fuel
distributor, CPR? Keep the info coming please... Rick

 

The place to start is the specs, look up the compression ratio, bore,
stroke, etc for the B28E, find some cams from the E or the specs to have
them ground and then go to a machine shop with your motor and have them
build it to your spec, they'll likely be able to suggest some improvements,
though I seriously doubt you'll ever push it to the level of even a mildly
hopped up 4cyl turbo motor.

 

And swapping to the turbo 4 will be less work, especially if you have a
donor car handy for all those little bits that are always necessary.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

 

Putting a four cylinder in isn't a consideration right now. I also want to
keep the KJet for now. If I ever decide to go other than a B28/B280 then
it will be a Chevy V8. Does anyone know if the headers made for an Alpine
A310 will fit in a 262? Were there ever any headers made for the Renault
30 or Peugeot 604?

 

I was told by a Volvo mechanic you can swap the inlet manifolds from a E
verson onto an F version (just 4 bolds and a lot of hoses). Apart from the
camshaft, you wil have at least 10 bhp extra. I will swap my B27E for a
"new" B27E some time next year for the 262C.

All the best,

Martijn
244
144
262c
V40 TD

 

What's different about the intake manifolds? I find it hard to believe that
you'd get 10 hp just from doing that. Camshaft is the easiest way to get a
dramatic change in personality of a N/A engine.

 

I'll bet that they are longer. That's how they got extra power from
the
old inline six, anyway...
--






http://www.albany.net/~mjc1/index.html

 

Depends whether they're talking about the early model "Octopus"
manifold versus the later cross-ram manifold. The Australian
models changed from the "Octopus" style to the cross-ram in
1978 or 1979. Pretty sure that they got more power. They then
added a bigger cam in 1980 (?) for more power again, before
going back to a milder cam with the 2.8 in 1981.

If the old manifold is bad enough, 10HP might be possible.

I got a bit more out of my 264.

 

Be careful when you refit the manifold; it is a large piece of metal,
which, as you say, is only held on by 4 bolts. These bolts are
stupidly undersized (M6, if I remember right), and it is very easy to
strip the threads in the ally head when you bolt it back on. If that
happens you will have trouble making the manifold airtight.

This is a very poor piece of design; getting 6 manifold legs to seal
with 4 small bolts is by its nature unnecessarily problematic.

Replace the 6 sealing O rings at the same time.
--

Stewart Hargrave


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