Broken hall sensor?? - B230F

I've observed some symptoms in my Volvo 740,..whet I take the hall sensor
for the hand
and I've moved them, the hall sensor isn't stiff,but I can move it for all
sides. It's normal or something is broken?? I've got same problems with
start hot engine and I think, the engin is in good condition,but it haven't
got enough power and accelerate beyond 120 km/h is very hard.

I've got B230F with LH 2.2 system form 1988 year.

all the best....

 

Any one know something about it or not??? Please give me some
answer,..because I can't find anything about this in net.

 

I'm a little confused by your description, the hall sensor is either
screwed down in the distributor, or screwed into the bellhousing, I
forget which but '88 is right around the transition. What do you mean by
it not being stiff?

 

OK,..sorry,..is my mistake. Now I know that it isn't hall sensor, but only
conector of hall sensor, which is inside the ignition distributor. This
black connector, is not stiff,....but I can move them for all sides. It's
plastic thnik and I've heard that sometimes this connector have broken,..but
it isn't hall sensor - sensor is inside the ignition distributor.

Tell me,..because mechnics said that in this engine (B230F) the ignition is
ONLY controlled by EZK module, but most of people said that in this engine I
can set the ignition by the hand (use a stroboscope lamp). The ignition is
controlled by: knock sensor, hall sensor, EZK module and underpressure,..but
the main set ignition I must put by the hand (manual set in the ignition
distributor) and then all the sensor and underpressure set the ignition in
detail.

Sorry for my english )

 

That connector breaks fairly often, it's quite fragile. If it sticks in
the hole then it's ok, if it's dangling by wires then the connector
needs to be replaced. You can order it separately, they refer to it as
an insulator, the electrical pins in it can be removed and transferred
to the new piece.

The EZK module is the brain, it uses the knock sensor, hall sensor, and
load signal from the Jettronic ECU to adjust the timing. You set the
static timing with a stroboscope by rotating the distributor, assuming
this car has the hall sensor there rather than the later crankshaft
sensor which is not adjustable.

 

Uzytkownik "James Sweet" <> napisal w wiadomosci

In this car I think I've got hall sensor in ignition distributor (because
I've got this broke connector in the distributor,...is connctor from hall
sensor, isn't it?).
So in this system, the main set of ignition is made by stroboscope, and the
sensors adapt the ignition in detail?? Am I right or not??

In this system is connected the underpression to EZK to stering ignition??

My problem with start the hot engine can be, because of bad ignition set??
or the hall sensor is going to damage??

Thenks so much for answers and help me.

all the best...

 

What is diffrent between EZK 116 and EZK 117?? How can I check which system
I've got?

 

Yes, that's correct, the ignition control box adjusts the timing from
the base setting, advancing or retarding it in response to knocking,
engine load (vacuum), and other factors.

It can be, if the hall sensor is not working, the fuel pumps won't run
when you crank the engine. If the pumps do come on then the sensor is good.

 

I've got LPG Gas in my car,...this symptoms is in the both fuel - NoPb and
LPG, so in the LPG the fuel pump is not working.

 

Well all I'm saying is that if you're set to petrol, and you crank the
engine, and the fuel pump runs, then the hall sensor is working.

How's your engine wiring harness? When my '87 died it had no spark, I
thought it was the hall sensor, but it turned out to be rotted wiring
insulation in the bundle of ignition and injector wires under the intake
manifold.

 

OK,.in the patrol NoPb car starts,so the fuel pump is OK.

The wiring and the spark plug are new.