Electric Fan

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Pm, Feb 13, 2005.

  1. Pm

    Pm Guest

    I have a 84 240 GLE and am considering taking off the viscous coupling fan,
    and replacing it with an electric fan mounted at the end of the radiator
    cowling. Has anyone done this mod? Anything to look out for?

    Thanks in advance,

    Paul
     
    Pm, Feb 13, 2005
    #1
  2. Pm

    James Sweet Guest


    Lots of people have, it's pretty straightfoward, just find a decent quality
    fan that will fit and install it with a temperature sensor. If you wanna get
    really fancy, find an OEM electric fan from a 940 but even the aftermarket
    stuff looks pretty clean.
     
    James Sweet, Feb 13, 2005
    #2
  3. Pm

    Pharmanaut Guest

    I have the fluid clutch fan on my 240 but by the look of it it's seized. The
    coiled spring on the front of the fan hub (I presume it to be a bi-metal
    temperature sensitive device) is rusted and doesn't move. Is this common?
    What would the benefits be of replacing it?

    Pharm..
     
    Pharmanaut, Feb 13, 2005
    #3
  4. ----- Original Message -----
    From: "Pharmanaut" <>
    Newsgroups: alt.autos.volvo
    Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2005 6:09 AM
    Subject: Re: Electric Fan
    The bimetal coil on the front normally doesn't move at all when you try to
    twist it. It controls a viscous clutch inside the housing - the closer the
    clutch plates get to each other in the goo, the more coupling to the fan.

    When you try to turn the fan with your fingers - with the engine off! - it
    should turn smoothly with some slight resistance. It will fail eventually in
    one of two ways - the silicone goo will leak out, causing it to become
    useless; or the bearings will seize (often not quite straight) and the fan
    will vibrate. In the first case the engine tends to overheat when idling in
    hot weather; in the second case it is bad for the water pump. If your engine
    is overheating in hot idling, and you test the fan and find it is still
    turning freely when the engine is hot, you've found the culprit.

    I've replaced the coupling on our '85 765T twice, both times with
    aftermarket couplings from NAPA that cost almost $100 US. The first one
    lasted barely a year before it seized and the second has been good for the
    last 4 years. IIRC a genuine Volvo part was about $150 US, and I might have
    been better off doing that to start with.

    Mike
     
    Michael Pardee, Feb 13, 2005
    #4
  5. Pm

    Pharmanaut Guest

    Bit of a moot point now... just been out to test the fan and the bonnet
    latch is either jammed or the cable has parted somewhere. The bonnet pull
    moves in and out a few inches but nothing happens to the latch.
    How do you get round this? Any ideas?

    Pharm...
    --

    "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
    temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety."

    - Benjamin Franklin, 1759
     
    Pharmanaut, Feb 13, 2005
    #5
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