engine knock 88 240 non turbo

Discussion in 'Volvo 240' started by jacktheboy, Dec 18, 2006.

  1. jacktheboy

    jacktheboy Guest

    160k mi. Knocks loud at start up. You can here it destinctively from 30
    feet away. Gets lower about twenty minutes at highway speed (55-60).
    Is suttle but present at idle, after an hour of driving.
    On start up with loud knock I can quiet it by pulling the number 2 plug
    wire only. Should I be worried about throwing a rod.
    I have been running thin oil in it for winter.
    I read about the piston slap and do not think this is it.
     
    jacktheboy, Dec 18, 2006
    #1
  2. jacktheboy

    Boris Mohar Guest

    It is not knock if it is at idle. You have a leaky exhaust manifold gasket.
    The reason it is louder at startup is because the manifold has not expanded
    to partially seal the leak. You should be able to see carbon deposits around
    the leak. Replace all four exhaust gaskets.



    Regards,

    Boris Mohar

    Got Knock? - see:
    Viatrack Printed Circuit Designs (among other things) http://www.viatrack.ca

    void _-void-_ in the obvious place
     
    Boris Mohar, Dec 18, 2006
    #2
  3. jacktheboy

    moonrise Guest


    Maybe, or maybe it's piston slap. Well known phenomenon in B230 engines.
    Not familiar with it myseslf, but it's said to be worst when cold, and
    diminishes as the engine warms up.
     
    moonrise, Dec 18, 2006
    #3
  4. I agree, not rod knock because it quiets after the exhaust gets really hot.
    In my experience, exhaust leaks are a fairly sharp tapping sound while bad
    rod knocks are a deeper "thunk" sound. Mild rod knocks sound very much like
    exhaust leaks, though. Piston slap is louder when the engine is cold, but it
    quiets quickly. It also sounds deeper than an exhaust leak, more like a
    clank.

    My favorite technique for locating an exhaust leak:
    Start with a cold engine. Connect the hose of a shop vac to the outlet side
    of the vac, so it is blowing air. Empty the shop vac and run it for a few
    minutes to clear grit out of the hose. Duct tape the hose to the exhaust
    pipe of the car and start the shop vac. Feel around the exhaust with your
    bare hand - even a small leak will be obvious.

    Mike
     
    Michael Pardee, Dec 19, 2006
    #4
  5. jacktheboy

    jacktheboy Guest

    I know for sure that the header pipe is leaking right at the manifold,
    and it is a bad leak.
    I need to replace two of the studs, and I am holding of until I do the
    rear seal, which is also leaking. I have new motor mounts and was
    going to yank the motor and tranny together to do all of this and some
    other stuff. (correct timing belt,I think I'm off a tooth,fix leaky
    water pump gasket,front tranny seals, rewire overdrive selonoid to
    switch) I have a list.
    Thanks
    Ray
     
    jacktheboy, Dec 20, 2006
    #5
  6. There ya go! Drive with confidence, but remember the exhaust at that point
    has significant CO. Having had CO poisoning once, I can tell you it's bad
    news. The sound you describe should be trivial enough, but if it gets louder
    it may need attention earlier.

    Mike
     
    Michael Pardee, Dec 21, 2006
    #6
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