happy 89' 240 owner from australia

Discussion in 'Volvo 240' started by snoopy42, Jul 3, 2005.

  1. snoopy42

    snoopy42 Guest

    Hi everyone,

    I bought an 89 240 sedan, wow what a car!!! :)

    its done just over 300000k's and drives like a dream.

    i would like to know what the average fuel consuption is for a 240 with a
    b230f motor/auto. at the moment i am getting about 400k's for about 42ltrs,
    is this normal for mixed hiway and suburban driving?

    i have cleanded the throatle body.

    new plugs and leads.

    new air cleaner element.

    is there anything else i should do, maybe use premium ulp?

    thanks in advance
    snoopy :)
     
    snoopy42, Jul 3, 2005
    #1
  2. snoopy42

    athol Guest

    Just out of curiosity, how much did you pay?
     
    athol, Jul 3, 2005
    #2
  3. I have the same car and same kilometrage. I get 460 kilometers to a full
    tank. (45ltr) when using the cruise control. Slightly less 400 when not
    using cruise.
     
    Judy and Brad, Jul 3, 2005
    #3
  4. snoopy42

    snoopy42 Guest

    i paid $3500, its in very good nic, new tyres, very good trim, paints good,
    probabably had a squirk of paint or 2, but looks nice, a/c works, drives so
    well . . . all i need is a hat now :)
     
    snoopy42, Jul 4, 2005
    #4
  5. snoopy42

    snoopy42 Guest

    what sort of cruise control do you have, and why is the consumption better
    with the cruise control?
     
    snoopy42, Jul 4, 2005
    #5
  6. snoopy42

    AJS Guest

    My car gets between 8 - 13L per 100Kms. If I get 10-11 with "normal" driving
    then I am happy. Lower figures are when doing longer trips.
    I would say you are getting about what I would expect for a reasonable
    driver. My car has a few mods and tends to be driven very hard.

    Flame trap. ALWAYS use Volvo or directly equivalent filters (Mahn?) I've
    tried both Ryco and other assorted "quality" filters and the all have issue
    with the anti drain back valve. It's a well known "issue". I run premium. My
    car hates the "oxygenated" fuels. Optimax, Vortex. Best bet for me is BP
    premium.


    AJS
     
    AJS, Jul 4, 2005
    #6
  7. snoopy42

    blurp Guest

    I don't know if it's a regional variance but my 240 (1983) has a 60L
    tank. The car was built in Sweden and sold in the pacific northwest US
    somewhere (Washington State I believe).

    blurp
     
    blurp, Jul 4, 2005
    #7
  8. snoopy42

    han_chung Guest

    My 87 240 (205,000kms) gets about 400kms on about 40L. This is a mix
    of highway and city driving. I've tried BP Premium but haven't noticed
    a difference in performance or fuel economy.

    Han.
     
    han_chung, Jul 5, 2005
    #8
  9. snoopy42

    244GL Guest

    Mine has a 60 litre tank as well.
    244 GL, 1981 in .au :)
     
    244GL, Jul 5, 2005
    #9
  10. snoopy42

    athol Guest

    Bit of a contrast to the '88 I just bought for AU$200. :)

    Very straight body but faded paint, an engine that allegedly uses lots of
    oil (but didn't on the drive home) and a bit of trim damage in the
    interior. A very nice straight body, though. Looks to be totally rust
    free but I'll find out for sure when I pull it apart...

    Should be a good new home for the 350 chev, etc. that are currently in my
    '80 264GLE. :)
     
    athol, Jul 5, 2005
    #10
  11. snoopy42

    snoopy42 Guest

    what do i do with the flame trap, and what is a anti drain back valve??? is
    that something to do with the air cleaner element?
     
    snoopy42, Jul 5, 2005
    #11
  12. snoopy42

    AJS Guest

    It's in the oil filter. Helps keep residual oil in the filter to stop the
    engine running dry for the initial second or two.
    Flame trap is a small plastic part with holes in it for the crankcase
    vapours to pass through. The idea being that if there is a fire ball in the
    crankcase venting system it will break the fire front up and extinguish the
    fire there by stopping a blown seal or two and a fire. It is a "dirty" part
    and when it gets blocked you get high sump pressure which can cause a number
    of issues. Including blowing the rear engine seals. It's a cheap part and
    can normally be kept clean with a small amount of maintenance. I bought
    several years ago and have only used two of them. IF it get's really dirty
    or messed up replace it. Also replace at the first sigh the plastic is
    ageing. It IS a bastard to get to it as it's right under the manifold. Once
    you get the hang of it you will be fine. There are a few good Volvo web
    forums which you should look at for more detailed information.
    http://brickboard.com/ is one BUT there are a few very arrogant and idiotic
    people. If you run across one don't be turned off of them. Not everyone who
    claims to know something does. FYI I'm not talking about anyone who posts in
    here :) You should also consider buying a decent manual if you wish to
    maintain your own car.


    AJS
     
    AJS, Jul 5, 2005
    #12
  13. Here's some quick info on flametrap maintainance:


    --







    http://freevision.org/michael/index.html

    There really needs to be a weekly FAQ posted here about the flame

    trap. On early nonturbo (the turbo doesn't have one) fours, it is

    located between the third and fourth branches of the intake manifold, a

    bit below the manifold. On '88 and later models, it is located in about

    the same place, but is a bit higher - a little above the manifold. It's

    a plastic "Y" or "T" - like junction, containing a plastic screen (I

    believe the turbo has the junction only). While the screen can be

    cleaned and reused, it is much easier to replace the whole unit - it's

    cheap. The two large hoses that connect to the trap just need a quick

    look to be sure they aren't blocked with gunk, while the small vacuum

    hose (that runs from the small (and fragile) plastic nipple on the trap

    to a small brass nipple on the intake manifold) should be replaced, or

    at least checked carefully for free airflow. The brass nipple should be

    unscrewed from the manifold, cleaned out, and replaced. The job takes

    from 45 to 90 minutes the first time, but should be much easier and

    quicker once you've done it once.

    --







    "Against ignorance, the Dogs themselves contend in vain."
     
    Michael Cerkowski, Jul 6, 2005
    #13
  14. snoopy42

    snoopy42 Guest

    i shall have a look on the weekend, thanksssss :)
     
    snoopy42, Jul 6, 2005
    #14
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