My 1990 Volvo 740 turbo

Discussion in 'Volvo 740' started by Dozer, Jun 21, 2004.

  1. Dozer

    Dozer Guest

    Hello all,

    Just been lurkng around this group for a little while now and was
    hoping for some advice on my car. I have never been into buying a
    brand new car and hate the idea of a car payment so I am currently
    driving my 1990 740 turbo with 197,000 miles on the clock which I
    purchased for $500 mainly because I felt I could get many more miles
    out of it and the car is in overall nice shape. I was hoping to get
    some advice on a couple of points:

    The headliner is all torn up in this car and is making a mess out of
    my otherwise nicely kept leather interior. I have seen the kits
    available from IPD for a hundred dollars and was wondering if anyone
    bought one and had it professionally installed( I have heard
    horrorshows about the diy jobs on these) and wgat that ran them.

    I failed my inspection last week because of tie rods, the station
    said. I have seen them selling full tie rods and then just tie rod
    ends. At what point should you replace the entire tie rod vs doing
    just the tie rod ends?

    My engine runs nice, mileage is about 20-14mpg. I am a little
    concerned about a lifter knock in the motor. Anyone familiar with a
    product they have used to quiet them down?

    Thanks in advance for any advice, and happy motoring with these very
    well built automobiles
     
    Dozer, Jun 21, 2004
    #1
  2. Dozer wrote:

    Have a look at this to give you some idea of what's involved:
    http://www.ipdusa.com/pdf/PI-240headliner700.pdf
    The tie rod (we call 'em track rods here) has a ball joint at each
    end. The outer one is refered to as the track/tie rod end, and is
    easily replacable without needing the rod to be removed - it unscrews
    from the rod.

    The inner joint is hidden in the rubber bellows, and is an integral
    part of the rod. If this joint wears you must replace the rod.

    If you are replacing the track rod, it usually makes sense to replace
    the track rod end at the same time.


    --

    Stewart Hargrave


    For email, replace 'SpamOnlyToHere' with my name
     
    Stewart Hargrave, Jun 21, 2004
    #2
  3. Dozer

    Mike F Guest

    Your car has solid lifters. Any products that claim to quiet lifters
    are for hydraulic lifters only. If you have lifter noise, the valve
    clearances can be adjusted with shims. Most commonly, what is thought
    to be lifter noise is leaking exhaust manifold gaskets. Does the noise
    get worse as engine load increases?

    --
    Mike F.
    Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

    NOTE: new address!!
    Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
    (But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
     
    Mike F, Jun 21, 2004
    #3
  4. Mike F wrote:

    Under the buckets, on top of the valve stems, is a little rubber
    doughnut (on top of the collets - I don't mean the oil seals). I've
    always assumed that these were an attempt to quieten the valve noise.
    But they don't seem to do a particulartly good job, they harden up
    with age, and can make measuring the valve clearence a bit arbitrary.
    --

    Stewart Hargrave


    For email, replace 'SpamOnlyToHere' with my name
     
    Stewart Hargrave, Jun 21, 2004
    #4
  5. Dozer

    Mike F Guest

    Yeah, I'm not sure what they're for, some call them oil seals, some say
    they're to reduce tappet noise. I know that I've taken engines apart
    that weren't burning oil or making noise that had those seals hard as a
    rock and cracked, so they really don't seem to be that necessary. Of
    course I'd never put a cylinder head back together without putting new
    ones in...

    --
    Mike F.
    Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

    NOTE: new address!!
    Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
    (But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
     
    Mike F, Jun 22, 2004
    #5
  6. Hi I have a 1990 740 turbo sinister black .164 klm on it now approx 100.000
    miles .Using synthetic oil in the tranny (auto)SYNTHETIC OIL in the engine
    ,it goes well very well with the wick turned up (the waste gate) it flies
    ..Upgraded the lights still 55 watts but plus 30 on high and plus 50 percent
    better on low they cope well .other than that use the best fuel you can and
    colder plugs .Where else can you get a car that's safe fast if need be and I
    am getting 31 mpg on a trip but I do stick to the speed limits .The parts
    are cheap if you check out your local Volvo club rather than pay for the
    name Volvo .
     
    John Robertson, Jun 28, 2004
    #6
  7. DRAIN THE OIL NEW FILTER VOLVO ,put normal quality oil in run it rev it and
    drain at 2000 miles then put in genuine synthetic another Volvo filter run
    it and enjoy the difference well run a fuel cleaner after you clean the
    throttle body .New plugs I use NGK .don't be afraid to rev it out a bit when
    its warm Volvos love it .We have two an 88 Turbo + 90 Turbo THEY BOTH run
    very well 230k and 168k.ENJOY
     
    John Robertson, Jul 19, 2004
    #7
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