No one will change Trans Fluid in 84 245

I have a 1984 245 Wagon with 183,000 miles on it, and the auto tranny
shifts great, except it has trouble getting into reverse when hot. Some
here have suggested a fluid flush might help, but now twice when I've had
it at mechanics (two different ones) for other routine stuff, oil changes
& such, I've asked to have the tranny fluid replaced, and they've advised
against it... They say that with 183,000 miles on the tranny, it's better
to leave it alone.

So what do I do? Knowing trannies, this problem will eventually get worse.
My affordable Volvo guy doesn't do trannies, my Volvo dealer service is
crooked ($400 for a muffler... I'll never make that mistake again), and
I'm afraid that if I take it to an AAMCO or such, they'll automatically
say I need a new tranny.

To put it another way: What other repair might help when a fluid flush is
verboten and a new tranny impractical?

 

I think they are afraid that by changing the fluid, they may cause it to
start leaking or something equally bad.... While that could happen, I can
only say that I changed the tranny fluid on my '89 240 about 2 years ago
with the help of a neighbor. Took about 40 minutes, and I used some
synthetic fluid (really taking a chance there!). All we did was disconnect
one of the lines at the radiator (don't recall which one it was, but can
check), hooked a hose to it and ran it into a plastic jug to catch the old
fluid. I ran the engine until the flow decreased (that's why you need a
helper), shut it down, poured in about the same amount of fresh fluid, and
repeated the flush. As I recall, we did that a total of 3 times, and it was
running pretty clear the last time, so I replaced the fluid with the more
expensive sythetic and reconnected the line to the radiator. Hardly spilled
a drop, no special tools, and no problems. I had a little short of 200,000
miles on it when we did that.

 

I might add that if any filings are trapped at bottom of pan and/or a
filter is used in this system, the simple draining of transmission fluid
by the pressure hose is not very beneficial. Usually garages only remove
a pan leaving 2/3rds still left (OLD) in torque convertor (I think even
that is a waste of money) Better get a proper fluid flush where all
transmission fluid is replaced and new pan gasket and filter (if
equiped) is all replaced. That is a true transmission service. Problem
not many repair shops will do it. I would search out one who will do it.
Having said all this, it's rather doubtful the transmission service will
probably not solve a slipping in reverse.

Dan

 

The plastic jug flush works just fine.
Remove the top trans cooler line hose from the radiator.
The fluid should go into the bottom of the of the radiator and
exit out the top connector. Can bump the ing key to see if the
fluid runs out of the top rad connector.
Go to any hardware and get about 10 feet of 1/2 inch clear
plactic tubing. Slip the tubing over the radiator male threads of the
upper trans/radiator connector. get 1 hose clamp just in case you
need to secure the hose to the fitting.
Put the other end into a 5 gallon plastic bucket.
Use a garbage bag tie to secure the hose to the bail of the bucket.
Pour at least 4 quart of new oil into the transmission.
Start engine and pour some more oil in.
Can wait untill you get air in the line but you do not have too.
Once the oil in the clear line runs clean, reconnect cooling line,
check and adjust the fluid as needed.
This is the exact same thing that any transmission flush machine
can and will do. This will get 99.99999% of the old oil out.
The only old oil will be on the one cooler line that you reconnect.
There are transmission cleaners that you put in the trans oil,
drive the car for a few miles, then do the flush.
There are also tranmission oil conditioners that you put in after
a flush. Use a quality name brand cleaner/conditioner.
The total flush will take between 8 and 12 quarts.
By a case of trans oil and flush the whole 12 quart.
Will not hurt a thing.
This will not correct or improve any worn or failing mechanical
parts. No flush will.
Is ther play in the shifter? The linkage bushings might be gone.

BD

 

Just out of interest the ATF should be changed every 30,000 miles for AW or
ZF transmissions. If using fully synthetic ATF then change every 80,000
miles in older autoboxes (100,000 miles if AW3040/3 series electronically
controlled auto boxes).

Cheers, Peter.

 

Is it necessary to change the filter as well? I called the dealer
to get a filter for my '01 s60, and he said there is no filter
for that tranny. Is that possible? He also said that although
that tranny is designed for synthetics, if it weren't a synthetic
couldn't be used. Until I resolve this I'm not doing anything
with the box.

p.

 

This may sound a little off the wall, but...take it to your local oil change
guy. Instruct them to flush/fill your system, give them the 60$ and you are
out of there. I went to Wal-Mart with a couple of gallons of synthetic
fluid, told them what to do, and in 30 mins I was all done, and the car
shifts smooth as silk.

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RS