OBD1..can't get codes!

'94 850

I cannot pull codes from module 'B' sockets 1 and 6...No codes
display, not even 1-1-1. All other sockets will pull codes (
fortunately 1-1-1, mostly)

A quick check of the wiring around the module, and checks for
corrosion inside the socket did not reveal anything...

Any ideas?
Ron/Champ 6

1963 8E5 Champ (Champ 6)
1962 Lark Daytona Convertible (Boomerang)
1992 VW Passat (Taxi)
1995 VW Passat (Vanilla..yuk)

 

If you haven't already, you could try the suggestions at
http://brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm

There's a paragraph there that reads:

"Can't Obtain an OBD Code? [Query] I tried obtaining a fuel injection
diagnostic code and can't even get 1-1-1. [Response: Chris Herbst] I
have run into a LOT of Volvo products with bad diagnostic readout
units, usually caused by corrosion. While it is possible that there is
no signal TO the diagnostic unit, it is just as likely that either the
connection in the terminal, or the connection TO the unit from the EFI
computer, is bad. You should try cleaning those connections, and if
necessary you can jiggle the connections until you DO get proper
readings. I've never had it where I wasn't able to at least read codes
and reset the computer, although sometimes it was when I was squeezing
the connections into the diagnostic readout unit, or jiggling them
around. While your problem could be the ECU, more likely it is
corrosion or a bad connection."

It's the 700/900 FAQ, but I imagine it applies equally well to the
850's.

 

Hmmmm. I didn't see any corrosion, maybe I'll get some contact cleaner
out and spray it anyway.

Thanks!

Ron/Champ 6

1963 8E5 Champ (Champ 6)
1962 Lark Daytona Convertible (Boomerang)
1992 VW Passat (Taxi)
1995 VW Passat (Vanilla..yuk)

 

I assume you have both electronic climate control (B1) and a memory seat
(B6)? And are they working correctly? There's only one wire from each
control unit to the connector, if they're working correctly, check that
wire. If they're not, then the only times I've ever seen faults
accompanied by dead diagnostics, the control units have been bad.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

NOTE: new address!!
Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

 

I cleaned both the sockets and the jumper, used a small screwdriver to
lightly scrape the socket contacts and cleaned again...I still cannot
pull codes on B1 (climate control) and B6 ( power seast...I really
don't care about this one, still....)


Furthermore, after correcting a few things I reset codes on everything
except B2 (cruise control) It shows a code, but I cannot get it to
reset. What does this mean?

Thanks again!

Ron

Ron/Champ 6

1963 8E5 Champ (Champ 6)
1962 Lark Daytona Convertible (Boomerang)
1992 VW Passat (Taxi)
1995 VW Passat (Vanilla..yuk)

 

I do have the memory seat. It has been recovered at some time, and I
do not know if it is original to the car. Two of the memories work,
one does not. The seat back angle motor runs, but the back does not
move.

What is the difference in the electronic climate control and the
'regular' one?

I just bought the car last week, and am slowly learning it.

Thanks for everyone's help!

Ron/Champ 6

1963 8E5 Champ (Champ 6)
1962 Lark Daytona Convertible (Boomerang)
1992 VW Passat (Taxi)
1995 VW Passat (Vanilla..yuk)

 

On B2 (cruise control) you should always get a speed signal code 1-2-2
unless you've driven the car over 35 km/hr since it's been turned on.
Drive the car, then check for codes without turning it off.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

NOTE: new address!!
Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

 

Electronic Climate Control has two graduated temperature wheels and
"Auto" settings.

For some reason the outer part of the drive cable in the seatback
stretches, and the inner part no longer engages the mechanism properly.
http://www.volvospeed.com/Repair/seatcable1.htm
You can replace the hog rings with plastic zip ties.
I just shorten the cable that's there, it's less work and costs less.
Remove the end from the motor. I pull the inner part out of the cable
now, and set it on some clean plastic (it's greasy), although I'm not
sure this is necessary. Then heat up the metal end with a heat gun,
pulling lightly on it with some needle nose pliers. When it's hot
enough the plastic will lose it's grip and it will slide off. Trim 1/4"
off the plastic outer cable, reheat the end and slide it back on. Slide
the inner back in, make sure it engages the mechanism at the bottom,
reinsert into motor etc.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

NOTE: new address!!
Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

 

Ah HA! The Haynes manual didn't tell me that! I do indeed have a 1-2-2
code only.

Thnaks!