Oil Drain Plug Crush Washer

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by DL152279546231, Jun 29, 2003.

  1. Do I HAVE to replace the oil drain plug crush washer every time? I don't have
    one and don't want to wait for IPD or the mail and need to change my oil. Last
    oil change I had a new magnetic drain plug installed which I assume came with a
    new washer. Isn't it likely the washer is still good?
     
    DL152279546231, Jun 29, 2003
    #1
  2. DL152279546231

    Bill Bradley Guest

    HAVE to, no. Should you, yes. It will still seal and if you're really
    cheap or out of them you can get a few uses from a crush washer, but
    you're risking not only leaks but stripping the oil pan if you
    overtighten trying to seal it with a used washer.

    Bill
     
    Bill Bradley, Jun 29, 2003
    #2
  3. Actually I think I ordered some but who knows where I put them... This is my
    first Volvo oil change
     
    DL152279546231, Jun 29, 2003
    #3
  4. DL152279546231

    James Sweet Guest

    You don't have to but it's a good idea. I'd say change the oil and use the
    old one for now, but order a bag of them so you have them on hand next time.
     
    James Sweet, Jun 29, 2003
    #4
  5. DL152279546231

    Rob Guenther Guest

    Eventualy you will start seeing oil drops on your driveway, this is the
    point where you "have" to change that seal... it is a good idea to do it
    each time tho. I know the Volvo dealer changes the seal each time, some
    places don't. (why do we goto Volvo.... because they are only 5 bucks or so
    more then the other lube shops including the very few european indy garages
    we have seen, they use an OEM Volvo filter, good quality oil, and they know
    our car and will do fluid checks and spot checks (they have called to say
    this or that is low/needs replaceing before... we saw the parts they changed
    out, not lying) while they have the hood open/car on hoist)
     
    Rob Guenther, Jun 29, 2003
    #5
  6. DL152279546231

    Alex Zepeda Guest

    As everyone else said, you (probably) don't NEED to, but you should. I'd
    just stop by the dealer and pick a couple up. The local Volvo dealer (and
    the non-Volvo side as well) doesn't charge me for little things like that.

    I'll always remember what the other guy said the first time I met him
    "Here, don't waste a tree.".

    Hah.

    Your local hardware or auto parts store should also have a proper part,
    but you'll probably have to bring a sample for them to check.

    - alex

    (ditchin' the bricks)
     
    Alex Zepeda, Jun 29, 2003
    #6
  7. From a point at sea, to the circles of your mind, this is volvowrench:
    It's a popular fallacy, I'm afraid.

    I wasn't strictly correct to say it had to be cooled slowly (I'm old,
    it was late, I'd been drinking whisky), but it is a myth that copper
    needs to be quenched to anneal it. In fact the rate of cooling is
    pretty much immaterial. My text book on metallurgy just states
    'cooling at any convenient rate,' going on to state 'The rate of
    heating and cooling is almost without effect on the size of the
    new-formed crystals.'

    There are some copper alloys that benefit from quenching, such as
    beryllium-copper, but the beryllium is added as a hardening agent in
    the first place. For a simple oil plug washer you would only quench it
    for convenience.


    --

    Stewart Hargrave

    Faster than public transport


    For email, replace 'SpamOnlyToHere' with my name
     
    Stewart Hargrave, Jun 30, 2003
    #7
  8. From a point at sea, to the circles of your mind, this is Stewart
    Hargrave:

    I've also just found out that it is possible to embrittle copper by
    cooling it too fast - the rate of cooling needs to be in excess of 10
    million degrees C per second. That equates to cooling it from cherry
    red to room temperature in about 1/25,000th of a second.

    I reckon it's unlikely to be a problem in this instance.


    --

    Stewart Hargrave

    Faster than public transport


    For email, replace 'SpamOnlyToHere' with my name
     
    Stewart Hargrave, Jun 30, 2003
    #8
  9. DL152279546231

    Gus Guest

    And that's the hard part. How in the world do you take a sample with you?
    You'd have to walk to the parts store since the drain plug would be out of
    the car.

    Gus
     
    Gus, Jun 30, 2003
    #9
  10. DL152279546231

    volvowrench Guest

    by Stewart Hargrave dropped his
    wrench, scratched his head and mumbled,
    My info is empirical.

    I worked in a factory where we made crimp connectors for distribution
    voltage splices. After all the machining on the copper was complete we
    annealed the crimp end. Just drilled the rod to make a crimp sleeve work
    hardened the connector enough to cause it to crack when using a hydraulic
    crimper to secure it to the conductor in the cable. After we built a
    trick little machine to anneal every crimp connector the problem went
    away.

    There probably was a fair amount of Be in the rod. I never checked the
    Rockwell, but it was fairly hard to begin with.

    Bob
     
    volvowrench, Jul 1, 2003
    #10
  11. DL152279546231

    Brick_0 Guest

    The drain plug diameter is 18mm. The inside dia. of the washer is 20mm. The
    outside dia. of the washer is 26mm.

    Brick_0
     
    Brick_0, Jul 3, 2003
    #11
  12. I went to the Volvo dealer and paid about $1.35 for one washer (I had hoped for
    a bad of 5 for 50 cents. So I have the parts and tools I need to do the job, no
    more excuses
     
    DL152279546231, Jul 6, 2003
    #12
  13. WHAT ABOUT TEFLON TAPE AROUND THE THREAD ON THE PLUG IF YOUR WORRIED ABOUT A
    LEAK .
     
    John Robertson, Jul 29, 2003
    #13
  14. From a point at sea, to the circles of your mind, this is John
    Robertson:
    Don't know about teflon tape, put PTFE tape may help. I've never
    needed it, and a replacement washer is not difficult to get hold of.

    I would also be a little concerned that PTFE tape does tend to split
    apart into strands, and the lube system of a car is the last place you
    want foreign bodies floating about.


    --

    Stewart Hargrave

    Faster than public transport


    For email, replace 'SpamOnlyToHere' with my name
     
    Stewart Hargrave, Jul 29, 2003
    #14
  15. DL152279546231

    Ken Shelton Guest

    Really bad idea. Shards of the teflon tape remain in the female threads and
    get pushed into the sump the next time the plug is replaced. Teflon tape is
    only for tapered pipe threads.

    And, it's not a crush washer under the plug head. It's an aluminum gasket.
    A crush washer is designed to crush a specific distance when tightened to
    allow pre-loading or positioning a ball bearing or other device according to
    clearances.

    Ken
     
    Ken Shelton, Aug 2, 2003
    #15
  16. DL152279546231

    G Margrie Guest

    It is a copper washer and it should be alright unless it has spread out
    really thin i only change mine about every 10 changes
     
    G Margrie, Aug 4, 2003
    #16
  17. DL152279546231

    brackenburn Guest

    Hi "G",

    I guess you like to "live dangerously"............
    After all, what are we talking about here? "Volvo part #18818 Gasket
    D1101, List $1.30, Net $1.00" Very cheap insurance. I buy them by the
    dozen from the dealer ($12.00 Canadian). I never changed the drain plug
    gasket on my first Volvo ('58 445, not 544... B16B motor) during oil
    changes. May be the dealer did on the occasional visit . No problem. On
    acquiring a '65 122S, B18 motor, tried the same practice........ it leaked.
    Fortunately I noticed the leak in time. Never again!

    And I.
     
    brackenburn, Aug 5, 2003
    #17
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