P0410 OBDII code

The dreaded Check Engine light came on today, so I took the car down to
AutoZone to get a reading. P0410 ... malfunction exists in the secondary
air injection system.

Can anyone tell me more about this problem?

Since the light came on as I was driving to work, I checked underneath the
car before I left for home tonight. There were two small puddles of liquid
beneath the car. I think both puddles were water. Is this related in any
way?

Thanks,
mike

 

What model and year car?

Mike

 

It just means your air pump system is not working. This will not affect
anything in the way the car drives, the only effect will be an increase
in cold start emissions. (And the check engine light as well.)
Probably what's happened is the SAS (SAS = secondary air system) valve
has failed in the slightly open position, allowing exhaust to flow into
the air pump, which is helpfully located at the lowest possible point so
condensation fills it and eventually works its way into the motor,
ruining it. However there's a control system, partially vacuum,
partially electric, which can fail as well.

The details on your car are slightly different than the 850, the relay
is in the "Main Fuses" box, but look at:

http://www.volvospeed.com/Repair/airpump1.htm

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

 

er..Mike..What kind of car is it??

 

It's a 1998 S70 T5.

Those Bay13 pictures are great. Is there any possibility that battery
acid might have eaten through anything, and thus added to the problems?
Battery acid ate through the connection of a cluster of wires at the
positive terminal.

The car has been feeling sluggish lately ... does this air pump have
any bearing on that?

2004 was a terrible year for my car (79,000 miles now)...
replaced both cv joints
replaced an inner tie rod
replaced a wheel bearing
replaced engine mount bushings
unfixed so far- passenger door handle is jammed
pending - this air pump issue

 

In the interest of keeping this thread going...

I keep getting the SAS Malfunction code as well, but I can't bring myself to
replace the $300 blower for the following reasons:

1) The light never comes on at startup or during the first two minutes of
driving. It usually comes on after the car is warm and has been running for
15-20 minutes. I'm under the impression that the SAS pump only runs for two
minutes at startup, so why would it kick off a code so much later?

2) I can feel/hear the pump running for the first couple of minutes after
startup so I know the motor's not burned out.

3) The light only comes on once a week or so, not every time, so I know the
motor's not burned out.


So perhaps I have a wiring problem that occasionally wiggles itself to
simulate a fault?

Can anyone tell me what exactly triggers the fault, i.e. what electrical
signal indicates a fault? Is it the current draw on the SAS pump motor? Is
it the O2 sensor level at startup?

My Haynes manual only dedicates one sentence to the SAS system,
acknowledging its existence, and it doesn't appear on the schematics.

Thanks,

-RL

 

The computer has no reliable way of sensing if the air pump is working
at cold start. So, it's tested after the car is warmed up. When you
come to idle, sometime after the car is warmed up, the computer stops
adjusting the mixture and monitors the front oxygen sensor, then turns
on the air pump system. If the oxygen sensor does not report more
oxygen in the exhaust within a few seconds, then it believes there's a
problem with the air pump system.

These test conditions may not occur in every trip you take, and if the
A/C comes on, or the throttle goes off idle, the test is aborted. 2
aborts and the computer won't try to retest until after the next cold
start.

If your pump is running, chances are it doesn't need to be changed, no
matter how noisy it is. In addition, there is a solenoid valve that
needs to open to allow engine vacuum to open the SAS valve. And of
course the purple vacuum hose between the solenoid and SAS valve has to
be OK. The wires can come off the solenoid valve, something can go
wrong with the vacuum supply, and the SAS valve can be seized closed.

On my '98 V70 the pump has been noisy for more than a year, and still
works fine. The SAS valve would not fully close, so I changed that last
year when I first noticed the pump noise. On my '98 S70, the pump was
dead (burned out motor, seized shaft) when I bought it in '02. Also the
SAS valve was seized closed. A friend with a '98 V70 had a noisy pump
in the fall, I counselled him to ignore it after letting him hear mine,
but his was dead within 2 weeks.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

 

If battery acid gets anywhere, it's going to wreck things.
Air pump failure has no symptoms other than the check engine light.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

 

So, what's my best approach to the fixes now? Replace both the valve and
the air pump? How would I know if both need replacing?


$295 - air pump
$86 - valve
$5 - clamps and gasket

Yikes

How safe is a $175 used air pump? If this part is often a problem, it's
not a safe bet, right?

If this part is in short supply at FCP Groton, and the Volvo part is $400,
would you go the used route? Would it be safe to wait until FCP gets the
part?

Thanks,
Mike
mikechiu AT overlunch DOT com

 

In the "main fuses" box are 2 yellow relays. Pull the one furthest from
the fender and jump the 2 larger terminals and see if it runs and
pumps. Note that the air pump draws a lot of current, a thin jumper
wire will get hot enough to burn you almost immediately and the ends of
your jumper will weld to the terminals. If the pump runs, it won't need
to be replaced, at least not right away. The SAS valve is simply a
vacuum valve. It should be sealed tight when no vacuum is applied to
the small vacuum connection, and open when vacuum is applied. If it
won't seal tight, then it needs to be replaced.

I wouldn't chance a used part unless it was a lot closer to free than
$175. Not fixing this immediately will only cause annoyance from the
check engine light, and if you have another problem, you won't know
about it. The air pump not working will not cause any other
consequential damage. Under the battery is an electrical connector for
the air pump, disconnect it from the car harness or just leave the relay
out if it's not working.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

 

I took another look inside the car today when it was bright outside. The
black rubber where the purple vacuum line meets the SAS valve is in bad
shape. Do you know if the rubber serves as a hose or if it's just
protection for the vacuum line connection. If it's a hose, then that is
obviously the place I should start.

Can this vacuum line be replaced without replacing other things? Where
does the other end lead?

Thanks.
Mike

 

That elbow does indeed carry vacuum, so you need to replace it (it's
available separately) and if you're lucky that will be your only
problem. The purple vacuum line goes under the distributor and ends up
at the solenoid that is mounted on the fan shroud. From the solenoid
you can follow the other vacuum line to the intake manifold.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

 

I just used a piece of windshield washer fluid hose to replace the elbow as mine had disintegrated. It fit tightly so I think it will work. This is the same fix I did for the broken cruise control vacuum hose.