picked up my new 1985 240 DL Wagon today

I finally finished the paperwork and brought the car home today. I'm
thankful the engine is the same B230F as my 1987 740. Now the question
is, "where to begin?"

The oil leak is the obvious so I think I'll start there. I jacked up
the car and crawled underneath - looks like I'll have to pull some
body armor off to access the oil pan bolts to tighten.

On top of the engine the early plan is to replace the plugs, wires,
rotor and cap. Replace the flame trap and clean the breather box.
Replace air filter. Clean throttle body. Check vacuum hoses.

Question: Above and to the right of the oil filter is some type of
plug/sensor. There is exposed wire going into that sensor. Is that
some type of oil pressure sensor? Expensive to replace?

Well, that's where I am now. It's deja vu all over again in the
garage.

LOL

PS: I need to get a Bentley manual. Are they much better than Haynes?

Thanks,
Jamie

 

Yes.....the bentley manual is well worth the $50. It is MUCH better
than the haynes manual. You will however find that repairs cost you
more with the bentley manual since it tells you the right way to do
things, all the proper hardware to replace, etc.

 

Cylindrical object with a single male spade connector coming out the
middle? That would be *the* oil pressure sender.
If it works, don't fix it.

 

Just curious, if the oil pressure sender was faulty, what would the
signs be?

Thanks,
Jamie

 

In mine, it's an idiot light... the light would stay on. Which is what
happens every time the spade connector wiggles loose.

If the light comes on when the ignition is turned on and goes off soon
as the motor lights, all is well.

 

That's the oil pressure sender, it also has a connection to control the
idiot light in the instrument cluster. The sensors can fail, but usually
it's just the wiring that crumbles, that's part of the infamous engine
wiring harness.

 

The guage will read incorrectly or be pegged, and the idiot light will
either be stuck on, or will not come on at all.

 

Other things to do:

Replace gas filter

Replace all fluids: coolant, power steering, transmission, rear end

Check and if necessary replace belts / hoses

Examine condition of timing belt and replace if necessary

Replace fuel injector seal(s) and clean / test injectors

Lubricate all areas of car which require lube

 

Check around the valve cover for leaks first.

Drain and replace ALL fluids and replace any filters.
Replace ALL belts.

Why do you want to replace it.

Sggest that you get Volvo manuals.

 

The valve cover goes on with a thin gasket and a rubber "half-moon
seal". If the half moon falls out/fails then oil will leak down the
back of the engine while driving. It's about a half inch thick
half-circle with a diameter of about one inch.

 

Degrease the engine area first, so that you, hopefully, can see where
the oil is leaking from.

Perk >)

 

Thanks all for the input. As far as my oil leak, I was able to isolate
it to the front passenger side corner of the oil pan. That was the
"street assessment" and I need to get the car jacked up to see it
closer.

My plan is to do the obvious tune up I mentioned, to make sure the
engine is at least starting and idling smoothly, and without any
excess pressure from something like the flame trap.

it is indeed the oil pan gasket, I am trying to get an understanding
of just how hard the job is. I've thumbed through my 1987 740 Haynes
manual because it's the same B230F engine as the 1985 240.

I understand the process of jacking up the car, remove the dipstick,
disconnect part of the exhaust and steering, remove the body guard,
unbolt the motor mounts, lift the engine, remove the oil pan and
replace the gasket. This is a broad overview.

My curiosity is, how hard is it to remove the splash pan? Are the
bolts on the oil pan all easy to get to? Is it tricky to unbolt the
motor mounts?

I remember changing the blower motor in my 740. It looked easy in the
book, until I couldn't get to all of the bolts. The second time was
fine because I did it before, and the 740 was much better than I hear
the 240 is. Still, the plan looked easy but was a pain in the butt
because of minor things.

Thanks!

Jamie

 

None of the bolts are hard to get to, there are a few on the oil pan
that will be blocked by the crossmember, but you can reach them with a
standard box end wrench. Splash pan is held on by half a dozen bolts in
plain view.