Replace head gasket on 93 940 Turbo

What does it take?
Pull the engine?
or
Loosen exhaust pipe and take off exhaust manifold
Intake manifold etc, timing belt, water pump etc
Remove head?

TIA

 

you answered your own question the 2nd choice no need to remove the engine
if you are mechanically inclined you can do this repair in a few hours
Glenn

 

One tip - leave the injectors, hoses and wires attached to the intake
manifold. Remove the manifold from the head but leave it more or less
in its place under the hood. Saves lots of time on reassembly.

 

it is a good 8 - 10 hour job...if...you know what you are doing...make
sure you check and prepare the head surface itself before replacing...
this is a good time to port and polish the head for better performance
as well....i had mine done @ my shop as i didn't have the tools, time,
patients, and overall know how to do this job properly...it is not a
small, easy job...from what info i have gathered...

 

You mean the port and polish job requires tools, time know how etc to do?
not the rest of the head gasket job.

Thanks

 

Well they both require some tools and knowledge, but it's easier to screw up
the port/polish job.

 

The most specialized tool you'll need on the newer red blocks is a torque
wrench.

If you need to (or would like to) have a book to guide you through it,
grab the Bentley manual for the 240s.

Otherwise, I think it's fairly straight forward (hey I stress{ed} out more
over dealing with the #@$ charging system and wrestling the alternator in
place than with the head gasket)... and most of the information is
available online (bb 700/900 FAQ, various bb posts, alt.autos.volvo
archives, etc).

- alex

'85 244 Turbo

 

a few hours?....do you mean 2-3 hrs?......or more
like 5-10 hrs..? i would drop off the head at a head shop for
port and polish and most important check for no warping...it is
a drag if you go through the whole process and find out the head is warped..
imho.......

 

Well if you've done it before you could do a head gasket change in 4-6 hours
however it's best to allow a weekend so you can get any tools you can't find
or don't own, and deal with any other issues that come up.

 

yea...i think the "volvo book rate" is around 11-13 hours...so, i fig
cut that in 1/2 for a person that is very quick w/a "fast shop
set-up"..
all the right tools & parts "at hand"....from what i have
learned...this is one job you don't want to rush through ... as there
are many other things to check "along the way".... me thinks.......

 

I think five or six hours is pretty reasonable, if you take a few
shortcuts (esp. when wrangling the exhaust on a turbo). Thirteen hours is
pretty generous IMO (especially for a dealer).

The big time killer for me was that I had to pick up the head from the
machine shop a few days later.. and then I found out they were cash only..
so add a few days on to that.. but the actual removal and installation of
the head was quite simple. Much easier on an LH-Jet car with a much
smaller mess of vacuum lines and fuel injection crap.

It also helps to have some sort of power tool to clean off the block
surface (doing it by hand really sucks.. ask me how I know :-D).

- alex

'85 244 Turbo

 

yep....i now remember my mechanic explaining this took a fair amount
of time...to do right...scraping the surface and doing very careful
inspection before new gasket and head went back on...all the steps he
stated were critical for a "one time job"...otherwise...you are "back
into the top end" in a few thousand miles......for small
stuff...coolant leaks, compression issues...etc...with my limited
knoweldge and shop set up...i was glad i had it done and did not try
to do it myself...although i am a fiar shadetree mechanic...it would
not have been a few hours for me...i would guess 10-20 with all the
help i would have needed to finish....i changed out the heads on my
1983 3/4 checy p/u...that was fun...took maybe 10-15 hours total time
(not counting running around buying parts)....

 

What sort of power tool? I did it by hand, I couldn't think of anything that
would be quicker and not risk damage to the block surface.

 

me>>> make sure you let us know what you decide to do...and how much
time it takes...good luck...i am interested to see how much effort it
takes...

 

And remember to retighten the headbolts after 1,000 miles. Tighten by 90 degrees
in one movement.

Cheers, Peter.

: me>>> make sure you let us know what you decide to do...and how much
: time it takes...good luck...i am interested to see how much effort it
: takes...
:
:
: > What does it take?
: > Pull the engine?
: > or
: > Loosen exhaust pipe and take off exhaust manifold
: > Intake manifold etc, timing belt, water pump etc
: > Remove head?
: >
: > TIA

 

My 91 turbo had a head transplant. I used new had bolts which are
torque-to-yield bolts. Installed year ago according to:

http://216.160.8.21/FAQ/700-900/HeadgasketRepair/HeadgasketRepair.htm


Never re tightened them. I hit 17 lb boost all the time. So far so good.



Regards,

Boris Mohar

Got Knock? - see:
Viatrack Printed Circuit Designs http://www3.sympatico.ca/borism/
Aurora, Ontario

 

Wow. Isn't that substantially higher boost than normal? It's been
a while since I've had a car with a B230FT, but I thought they ran
at 11 - 12 lb boost.

Beverly

 

The car has been diddled with. There is some info on my sorry excuse for a
web page. Engine is holding up fine. Tranny not so good.



Regards,

Boris Mohar

Got Knock? - see:
Viatrack Printed Circuit Designs http://www3.sympatico.ca/borism/
Aurora, Ontario

 

nice...the 17psi is a pretty impressive target...the motor really put
out at that level...i am trying to cruise with 10...and hit 15 for a
few seconds at wide open throttle...i am still playing around with
waste gate / dawes valve / and an upgraded chip that should arrive
this week...note:..after hittin some nice boost numbers last may...i
was out WOT with my 93'940t in wy back highways...hittin' about
130mph...when...poof...white smoke (and lots of it)...anyway motor got
very hot (not hot enough to melt the plastic..which happins
sometimes...from what i have heard)..and i warped my head...had my
shop do the fix...we ported and polished the rebuild unit...runs good
now...but...i am supersied the warning lights do not advise the driver
when the coolant level is dropping...the only water temp guage tells
the driver the temp of the actual water...in the engine jacket or
block...i have seen or had the coolant water compleately drain
out...and the water temp sensor was exposed to the air (cause no water
was surrounding it) ... the water temp guage returned to normal...WTF?
no water in the motor...motor is "cooking"...and the water temp is
reading normal...bad design...anyway...i discovered a mod that 940
owners can do...that will warn you when the coolant bottle or resvoir
is empty (1st good warning that things are goin wrong)...here is the
url>>

http://makeashorterlink.com/?S16452A66

it is a long one...i had to shorten it...anyway...be careful w/the
coolant..."things are not always as they seem" in my 940t !!

 

More like 7.5 psi, but 17 makes them a LOT more fun to drive