Hello: I've seen some terriffic websites for things like replacing a heater/AC blower motor but found not a thing on 240 wagon (Estate car) hatch replacement. Helped a friend's brother do one this afternoon and got a few pics and can offer some general tips. This project involved the left wiring harness (driver's side on a US market vehicle.) Obviously in RHD markets one must reverse some comments. Vehicle was a 1986 240 DL wagon with approximately 265,000 miles on the odometer. Photos are available (but only document part of the process) at: http://photobucket.com/albums/c285/dewittprof/tailgate wiring/ Overview of task: This is not a difficult job but easier with two people. It involves marking the hinge locations with masking tape etc, removing carpet panel on inside of tailgate, loosening hinges (or removing rear tailgate strut, then disconnecting old harness and fishing new one through. Tools and Materials Required: Masking tape (for marking hinge locations) Phillips head screw driver STIFF putty knife or flat screwdriver (for bending headliner lip) 11mm socket with ratchet and short extension 12 mm socket Slip joint pliers for pulling back headliner Wire strippers "Deadman" or other support brace for hatch when hinges are loosened and strut removed. Good soldering iron, desoldering tool, appropriate gauge wire (black,) solder and a cleaning solution for the broken copper wire on hinge. I use a product called Stay-Clean Liquid Soldering Flux. Where I live it's only available at welding supply houses but is not expensive and available in 4 oz bottles. While one can get by without it, if the ground wire on the hinge is broken the copper is dirty and oxidized..thus making the soldering process more difficult. Parts required: New tailgate wiring harness. They come in flavors of right and left and ARE different. At the local dealer here in NY they are approximately $33 each side. I seem to recall that IPD is close to that in price. I purchased from http://www.eeuroparts.com in Connecticut for $9.90 Ordered at 3:15 PM on a Monday and had this and other parts by 3:21 PM the next day. They ship to the US and also Canada, but I am not sure about Europe or Central and South America. All orders placed before 5 PM EST are shipped the same day. How long it takes to arrive is determined by distance. I happen to live a 5 or 6 hour drive from their facility so nearly always have what I ordered in 24 hours. Link to part: http://www.eeuroparts.com/productdetail.aspx?searchResults=1&code=7464 NOTE: eEuro has excellent customer service and good prices--but make sure you are ordering what you really REALLY need, as their return policy has a restocking fee that can be as much as 20%--and they will also deduct what the original shipping cost was to your location. Understandable policy as margins have to be low for the prices they offer. Have a question about a part number? Call them and be sure. Time Required: Well..it took us about 2 hours but we had many interruptions like phone calls, customers in the shop etc. I don't work there and was only giving a hand as the shop owner works on Volvos but had never done this and can be impatient at times on tedious work. I'm going to replace both harnesses on my '93 DL wagon soon and expect it will take about 1 hour for the entire job. Practice makes things easier, right? Procedure, Step By Step: 1. Tape roof of car as close as possible next to rubber gasket under hinge to mark hinge position on gate and roof. This can make it much easier if one has to remove hinges but I'd do it anyway. 2. Remove carpet panel on inside of tailgate--essential but easy..and here the phillips head and a putty knife are essential. 3. Raise hatch and support with a "deadman" or a sturdy home-made brace with a heavy base. Position about center of gate seemed to work. 3b. Remove clip from upper hatch strut mount and lower it. Two second task at best. 4. Bend down headliner support "lip" with a 5 in 1 tool, putty knife or wide screwdriver. It only needs to be gently bent down enough to allow one to grip the headliner with pliers, etc. 5. Pull back edge of headliner gently far enough to grasp with fingers and pull from lip. 6. Loosen hinges on gate and roof. Roof has two 11 or 12 mm bolts, gate has one bolt and one phillips head machine screw. Note: In the past (many years ago) I was able to loosen the hinges and slide wires though. On the wagon I worked on today that was not possible as the ground wire on the hinge was broken. 7. Disconnect old harness underneath the roof, tape appropriate end of new harness to same and pull old harness from below inside gate. Be certain you have rubber gaskets for hinges on the roof and gate before fishing harness through. They don't have to be in any fixed position--but harness must go through them, or you'll have to either cut them (bad idea) or pull the harness back up and start over. Important note--and I wish I had gotten a pic of this but will next time: When pulling the harness from the roof down, fish it first through the hole in the roof and then through the hole on the upper left inside of the tailgate so it does not have to make an extreme bend. Then tape and pull down to the inside lower part of the gate and reconnect. I'm not explaining this well and will provide next time I do this. Bottom line is that is if not done this way the harness will bind and once can't pull it through. 8. Note condition of left side hinge before loosening, and if you see a broken heavier gauge wire you can't pull out with a pair of needle nose it will be what I assume to be a ground wire. I'll have to do more checking but can say this: we connected the new harness and then tested before buttoning things back up. With hatch raised the third brake light (cyclops as we call them here) was functional. With hatch closed it did not work. Repaired that wire and all was well. 9. Once harness has been installed the rest is easy--but having a helper when refastening and tightening the hinges is best. Final note: I do realize the photographs and documentation could have been better, but still think this might be helpful for someone. When I do my own wagon sometime in the next few weeks I hope to have someone standing by to take the pics and provide more detail. Cheerio, Doc
On Sat, 21 Jan 2006 01:16:29 GMT, wrote: Note: I do plan to do a better job of documenting this next time in a few weeks and would appreciate any comments on how instructions or photos could better illustrate the task. Also noticed I made a few minor typos; hey..I was in a hurry but that's still no excuse. If anyone here wishes to do a website and use the photos and instructions they are welcome to do so as long as they contact me and give me some sort of credit by name. Otherwise share freely if you think it will help someone. Next week's project will be trying to document flame trap replacement and also a full brake job. Brakes are easy but that flame trap has me stumped on the easiest way to do the job.
