shocks: volvo original versus monroe

hello

Is there a difference between the shock absorbers from volvo and monroe?

I especially mean the "air" shocks, the manual leveling system.

Since 2 years i have those original shocks on my 245. And since 3 months
i hear some king of knocking noise from the right shockabsorber when the
car is moving.
The shock is not leaking oil, nor loosing any preasure!
It jus makes this terrible noice!

Some friends of mine have the same problem, aswel with the 9/7 or 200
series shocks.

Does anyone know how this happens or what it is? And doe the monroe
shocks have the same problem?

Is there a difference between the Volvo original nd the Monroe shocks?
In price there is: monroes ar more expencive than the volvo's.

Any advive would be great

greets lex

 

Jerrad at IPD pointed me to this solution, which solved my similar noise
problem recently on my 91 240:

There is a fastening nut, maybe called the glan nut or cap nut, midway up
the length of the strut assembly that can make a lot of noise over small and
medium bumps. It's not unusual for this nut to loosen over time. It holds
the shock absorber insert to the strut assembly. To reach it, jack up this
corner tire (right front). This will extend the shock and spring and give
you a workspace between the top of the tire and the wheel well opening.
Turn your steering wheel all the way to the right. Reaching inside the
right suspension spring, lift the protective rubber sleeve a few inches to
reveal this cap nut. You will only see the top lip of this nut, because its
threads are down inside of the strut assembly. With a plumber's pipe
wrench, slide wrench through the spring to grip the slightly noched top edge
of the cap nut and tighten about the same torque as lug nuts (gut feel
method). If this is loose more than 1/2 turn, it is probably the culprit.

Other suspects to test for include worn ball joints, worn bushings occuring
anywhere over 100,000 miles (average, but many owners last much longer). A
little less likely is loose bolts/nuts on suspension/steering, but should
not be overlooked. Also, it maybe the shock, but I'm less knowledgeable
about various brands of shocks and construction.

P.S. - Never forget to secure the jack with a proper lift tool. If the car
slips from the flimsy jacking tool while you have your hands working with
the cap nut, goodbye fingers and hands.

 

hello Pat

At my 245 it are the rear shocks who make that noice. Those are the
"airleveling" shocks. But there is no nut to turn on.

But i'll keep it in mind in cause i have such a thing on my front shocks.

Greets and thanks
Lex

 

This sounds like you're talking about the _front_ struts.

I'd strongly suggest that getting the correct tool (a C-spanner) would be
far more appropriate.

Of course, Bilstein inserts use a completely different design of nut and
come with a special tool, which can only be used with the top bearing and
spring removed from the strut... Not that they need to be tightened again
if installed with the original tool and a torque wrench.

This is a significant advantage of the correct spanner. It hooks into one
of the notches in the nut and no part of the hand needs to go between the
spring coils.

I'd be guessing that is the _rear_ shock absorbers?

If you're getting a clunking noise as the accelerate or decelerate, I'd
be looking at the bush at the back of the lower control arm, which is
pressed into the axle housing. The right side is usually the first to
fail. If course, there are plenty of other parts that can be loose or
worn.

 

The wear parts that knock in the rear are the shocks and trailing arm
rear bushings and stabilizer (or reaction rod or stay rod) bushings. The
bushings will make noise whenever the car is moved forward or back as
well as when transversing bumps. Shocks make more or a rattley noise
when reacting to small bumps in the road. The upper and lower shock
bushings wear and allow the shock reaction to bumps to create a knock.

Bob

 

Well if it is the front suspension I can tell you from experience that
the cartridge insert can sometimes sieze in the compressed position,
effectively eliminating its function. The cartridge, now loose and
free to travel in the strut, makes a helluva bang when the spring is
compressed without the damping and the cartridge hits the top.

When this happened to me I thought the strut was going to blow right
through the hood.

I now have Monroe on the back and Gabriel on the front and I'm very
disappointed by the mushy feel of the ride. Save up for the Bilsteins!

Live and learn.
blurp

 

I'm very happy to say that my '80 model now has Bilsteins front and
rear.

I rebuilt the entire front end a few months ago. New urethane bushes
in the lower arms (old rubber removed using thinners, not burning!),
'81-on struts with new bearings, '78 front springs (heavier).

Unfortunately, I made the mistake of fitting a pair of apparently
good old top bearings. The rubber of one has now split and will need
changing soon. Time for a pair of aftermarket adjustables, I think.