"strut inserts"? How hard to do myself?

My mechanic tells me I have worn strut inserts in the front end of my '92 240.
I get some clanking going over a washboard or speed bump at slow speeds. He
quoted me $400 for both inserts.

Is this something a guy with decent skills and tools could do himself?

-jeff

 

That was including parts? What parts? I was charged $75 AU by my local Volvo
shop to replace the springs and inserts. My parts.

Use Google. Plenty of stuff is availabe about this. You MAY need a rattle
gun and you will need a tool for the nut holding the insert in. You can make
one like I did. If the labor isn't much then I would just pay and let them
do it.


AJS

 

If that is the total for the job, and your mechanic knows what he is
doing, then that isn't too bad of a price. There are other parts (not
just the cartridges) that should be included in this job, and it will
need an alignment afterwards. He should also change the rear trailing
arm bushings (the "cone" bushings) and examine the anti-roll bar links
and bushings as well. Ball joints too (easily changed at this time and
not expensive). Also examine the outer and inner tie rod ends. Might
as well do them now if necessary as you will need an alignment again
if done later.

The only special tool you need for this is a quality spring
compressor. This tool is about 35-85 or so. I got this one:
http://tinyurl.com/2ts5h

A pickle for is good for removing the ball joints and tie rod ends.

It is a dangerous job not only becasue you are disassembling a good
part of the front end and brakes (and the need t put it all together
correctly), but because the compressed spring has enough power that,
if released at the wrong time) can kill you.
from Randy & Valerie
__ __
\ \/ /
\__/olvo
1993 960 Estate

 

I've removed and replaced the struts on 240's before but what are "strut
inserts" ?
The only thing that comes to mind is the cylinder that I would have called a
"shock absorber".

Is that what we're talking about ?

 

Strut inserts are often called shock absorbers on cars with strut
suspension. They do perform the shock absorber's function, but also
serve to locate the wheel. Because they have more functions that simple
shocks do, they are given a different name (and they generally cost
more).

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

NOTE: new address!!
Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

 

This is for the very experienced DIY mechanic only as it involves using
spring compressors to compress the springs (duh ).

One false move and you let loose enough energy to do serious damage to
yourself.

This is not a job I would recommend to the novice.

John

 

John Horner wrote:

I think you are over stating that a bit. Spring compressors are very
easy to use, and difficult to get wrong. I would suggest there is more
danger in jacking the car up. Provided you think about what you are
doing there should be no problem - this is the case with many jobs on
a car
--

Stewart Hargrave


For email, replace 'SpamOnlyToHere' with my name

 

Just changing a tire is quite dangerous and has plenty of potential
for injury.

I think we could all list ten ways to die working on cars- let's not
forget "Don't wear a tie when using a timing light."

I use to do split rims when I worked at Montgomery Wards during
college. I did a LOT of them and never had one come apart, but I heard
all the stories, and they were quite impressive. One day I mounted
one, was walking away from the truck, and heard it 'pop' into place.
That was after I had inflated it to about twice the recommended
pressure, let the air out, and reinflated it to the proper pressure.
We didn't have a decent safety device or cage, so I would lay them on
the floor and let the floor lift down on them! other time when the
lift was not availabvle I would put my arm through the center hole
from behind and inflate them with the front near, and pointing at, a
concrete wall.

Although there is no safe place to be, the important thing to remember
is that you should treat the compressed spring like a loaded gun and
never stand with either end pointing at you. If one of the bolts
breaks it can be shot like a bullet, as well as the dancing spring
looking for a partner.

The first time you compress one of them you will be quite impressed
with how much force it takes.
__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvo
'93 960 Estate

 

I still think this is scaremongering. The OP asked if it was a
suitable job for 'a guy with decent skills and tools'. I think it
certainly is.

I find it difficult to see how a spring compressor can sensibly be
used incorrectly. Buy a decent tool, and the chances of one of the
bolts breaking are as likely as one of the bolts in, for example, a
brake caliper breaking (I guess it must have happened sometime, but
the occurrence is vanishingly small). By the nature of the tool the
spring is compressed and released gradually and in a controlled
manner.

Make sure the compresors are fitted correctly (it's obvious); don't
drop, throw or bounce a compressed spring. But don't be scared of it
either. Driving a car is more dangerous. Take as much care as you do
every time you fill up with extremely dangerous, explosive fuel.

A suddenly releasing spring may be theoretically possible, but use
your brains, and winning the lottery is more likely - even if you
haven't bought a ticket.
--

Stewart Hargrave


For email, replace 'SpamOnlyToHere' with my name

 

I agree with Stewart.

So what if the spring compressor lets go (unlikely) ?

You need to use two anyway and even if one let go, the spring wouldn't go
anywhere.

If one wanted to be super-cautious and go with the belt and suspenders approach,
use some 9 gauge wire to tie the spring up, as well as having the compressors on
it.

BTW, I used homemade spring compressors; some hooks bent up from 1/4" x 3/8" bar
stock, welded onto the side of three hex nuts welded together, and threaded onto
some threaded rod, one end of the rod ground square, for turning.

I'm not what anyone would call mechanically inclined or car savvy and I didn't
find the job of R&R'ing the struts to be all that difficult.

 

Here's my post from about a year ago when I replaced mine:
---------------------
Lazy me, I finally got to work today and replaced the ball joints and
front strut cartridges along with the strut mounts and bearings.
ALthough I have been working on cars (for myself mostly) since 1968,
this was the first time for me to do struts- took about 5-5.5 hours
including cleanup. I had already done the rear shocks months ago (they
were quite bad, but a much easier job).

The front end has had a knock for some time. Hard to tell where it was
coming from, but definitely from the front suspension- strut mount or
ball joint.

Big surprise- Chiltons was only a modicum of assistance. The 960 is
poorly represented in that manual for strut replacement although the
basics will help you out a bit.. just a bit.

I would say, if you have to ask if you can do it at home, then the
answer is probably no. Although it is not difficult, it is not a job
that should be done by the inexperienced, at least not without
experienced help there. If you have any doubts get the official Volvo
book for front suspension and follow that. Part of what got me through
is that I had thought the job out over and over, and pretty much had
it down mentally before beginning. I ran into no major surprises.

I did the job alone, but when lowering and raising the suspension
assembly assistance would be nice. I do have a pro floor jack and that
helps. With the '93 960 the entire hub, rotor, and strut assembly
comes out in one piece, so it is heavy and a bit unwieldy.

Besides the standard shop tools you will need a large pipe wrench or
equivalent to get the cartridge retaining nut off and a large bench
vise to hold the strut for some of the work. A spring compressor is of
course mandatory. I got mine from Sears who had it for less than J.C.
WHitney or anywhere else I looked. It is the one with the built-in
retaining pins and it worked perfect.

I also replaced the ball joints while I was at it as both boots were
badly torn. The new joints were much stiffer than the old ones.

I replaced the stock strut cartridges with the Boge Turbo Gas units.
It should make for a very compliant yet responsive ride- I will let
you know later in the week.

Test ride tomorrow and then on Monday an alignment.
-----------------------
and the follow-up post:
-------------------------
As I mentioned in an earlier post, I just replaced my front struts and
ball joints. Took a short test drive this AM (like one mile) to be
sure all was OK before heading the 30 miles into town tomorrow for the
alignment.

I remember someone on the list stating that after they did this same
job that the ABS worked much better. Same here. Before, the front
wheels would stutter but now the things just stops. I had it on the
slight-downgrade, dead end road, took it up to about 50, and hit the
brakes hard. It brought the cart to a halt quite quickly.

Now, my inquisitive nature is thinking, sure, better weight transfer
with the new struts (or actually, less weight transfer to the front
wheels) is going to help, but as you know, the ABS sensors in the
front hubs have to be removed to do this job. And when they are out
you naturally are going to wipe them off to clear off all the magnetic
crud that builds up on them, and there was quite a bit on mine...
--------------------------

Hope that helps in some way-
__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvo
'93 960 Estate

 

We face similar situations over on alt.coffee often. Folks will ask
about doing some mod or wanting to change a pump out in an espresso
machine. The problem comes form a poster defining themselves as having
some level of competence and then asking if they could do the work
themselves. It is difficult to know through a keyboard if they have
the ability to do this job. If the person has read through the
procedure and then has to ask 'do you think I can?' then maybe the
best advice is to tell them to get help from someone experienced.

When I did mine I didn't hesitate after reading up on the process, but
I have rebuilt a motor in an apartments parking area, pulled trannys
and replaced 350ci V8s and more. Much more. Heck! I even got better at
setting up dual solex carbs on VWs than the mechanics at VW! I guess
that isn't saying much, but still! ;-)

Mechanically it is not a difficult job. Considering that it entails a
near-total disassembly of the front suspension it just might be one of
the easiest jobs of its kind. But since it requires the removal of
critical components (suspension and brakes) it is important to answer
with some level of responsibility (not saying that you are
irresponsible- just that telling every TD&H who drops by that they can
do it is not a good idea).

All the little things that we take for granted like making sure all
critical components are clean and free from grease and the use of
loctite on the critical fasteners, and that the compressor tool is
clean and oiled before and after use, and such may not be in the
questioner's bag of skills and knowledge.
__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvo
'93 960 Estate