Sudden Death

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by jacktheboy, Dec 28, 2006.

  1. jacktheboy

    jacktheboy Guest

    88 240 wagon, 160k
    Normally I drive 55 and I am very strict about it, but it was
    Christmas Eve morning and I wanted to get home so I was driving at
    65-70 mph on my 1 hour commute. Engine dies without warning.
    No suttle or dramatic noise or feeling, just complete and abrupt shut
    down.
    Put it in nuetral, coast to a stop, engine cranks slugishly but will
    not start or even sound like it will catch.
    Upon towing car home, noticed an oil stain about 7in around and one
    next to it about 5in around, and wet enough to see it was oil if you
    wiped it hard with your finger. Checked oil level while stranded and
    it looked good. Did this while in panic on shoulder of main highway
    with my world crashing and visions of me being killed in some freak
    Christmas Eve accident. Have not checked sinc I got it home or been
    under to see if theres a hole in my engine.

    Known and suspected problems:
    In tank pump is dead, and I have been running on main fuel pump.(no
    power, poor to no acceleration)
    Rear main seal leaking a quart every tank and a half of fuel.( oil all
    over bottom of car from tranny back). I stay on top of oil level.
    Three weeks prior, I lost heat and drove for at least 1 hour each way
    on two commutes (total of 4 seperate hours), thinking I had a faulty
    heater control valve (Hose going into valve was hot, hose coming out
    was cold). When I replaced valve noticed I did not get much if any
    coolant upon disconnecting hoses inside car. Finished install got no
    heat, saw no coolant in overflow, added 1 and a 1/2 gallons coolant,
    got heat back. (check the easy things first, I could have checked
    coolant level when problem arose, but looked for something more
    complicated and costly) Noticed then that O-ring on water pump was
    seeping, not dripping, but seepage was there. Started to maintain
    water level in overflow. Leak did not seem dramatic, and ordered new
    gasket set for replacement.
    I have never heard or read of a low oil press. shut down feature , is
    this wishfull thinking. Have I neglected my car to death.
    Ray
     
    jacktheboy, Dec 28, 2006
    #1
  2. Did your timing belt break. With all these oil leaks etc, I would not
    be surprised if your timing belt broke. Usually when the timing belt
    breaks the engine is very quiet when you crank the engine because there
    is no valve noise and no compression.

    One word of warning. Coolant and oil are the life blood of an engine.
    Much more important than cabin heat. Check you levels regularly. Your
    car is obviously on its last legs unless you get it fixed.
     
    Stephen Henning, Dec 28, 2006
    #2
  3. jacktheboy

    Ron Guest

    With no noise I'd guess it was NOT the timing belt. I've only had one
    break, ( '76 Civic.non-intereferrence engine), and it was noisy
    flopping around as the engine spun down. I can't imagine how noisy an
    interference B-21 is. My guess is fuel pump relay

    Ron/Champ 6

    1963 8E5 Champ (Champ 6)
    1995 VW Passat (Vanilla..yuk)
    1994 Volvo 850 (Tilley)
    1973 Volvo 1800 ES (Hyacinth Bucket)
     
    Ron, Dec 28, 2006
    #3
  4. In <>,
    Agreed. I also think it is the FPR - whose failure is fairly notorious
    for that model year. Also, the engine would most likely be a
    non-interference B230 in a '88 240.

    AC
     
    Aawara Chowdhury, Dec 29, 2006
    #4

  5. Sounds like Santa wants you to have a new car!

    As one who drove 240s for about 20 yrs or so (musta been a masochist) I
    know it's necessary to have a catastrophic failure to finally realize
    it's time for something better.

    I know, I know - even though the main seal and water pump are drooling,
    and the car barely was running, you still want to have someone tell you
    everything's gonna be OK - so go to the Brickboard and you'll find
    plenty of folks who'll commiserate with you and tell you the ol' gal is
    worth saving:

    http://brickboard.com/

    But they're wrong (trust me) - just find yourself a nice 940 Turbo or
    960 wagon and discover there's something better.
     
    Bob (but not THAT Bob), Dec 29, 2006
    #5
  6. jacktheboy

    James Sweet Guest

    None of the redblock 8 valve engines were interference, at least not
    those used in the US market.

    Still, if the timing belt broke the engine will not sound right when you
    crank it.

    Verify fuel flow, when my main pump failed the motor in it was still
    running, it was just not pumping. If your tank pump was bad you may well
    have killed the main pump, that puts a lot of strain on it.

    Also replace the engine wiring harness if you have not already, in that
    year car it will be bad.

    How's the cosmetic shape? 240s are fantastic cars, they're easy to work
    on and will run pretty much forever very cheaply so long as you take
    care of the well documented issues that pop up at certain ages. I've
    driven other cars but whenever I hop back in my 240 I know why I've kept
    it all this time.
     
    James Sweet, Dec 29, 2006
    #6
  7. jacktheboy

    byrocat Guest

    Check the fuel filter. My old car (95 850) was sold to the local
    butcher and randomly died with no warning or any change except for the
    motor no longer running. Wait ten minutes or so, it would catch when
    turned over and run as if nothing had happened.

    If you're getting lots of fluids coming out, check to make sure that
    there is no mixing (main gaskets are gone and block is probably
    cracked.)

    Does sound as if it is time to start reading the local buy-and-sell
    newspapers and finind out who handles Volvo lease returns in your area.
    Get a more recent one for about 5-8 thousand less than the dealers
    charge.

    I got my 2001 V40 that way and saved 3 thousand right from the get-go
    (figure in the dealer prep and taxes and you're pushing 5 thou).
     
    byrocat, Dec 29, 2006
    #7
  8. jacktheboy

    Mike Lindsay Guest

    Some education please. What does the term "interference engine" mean?
     
    Mike Lindsay, Dec 29, 2006
    #8
  9. jacktheboy

    Gary Heston Guest

    Means that in normal operation, the valves extend into the cylinder
    below the highest point in the pistons' travel--so if the timing belt
    breaks, some of the pistons will hit extended valves, damaging both
    the piston and valve, requiring engine replacement.


    Gary
     
    Gary Heston, Dec 30, 2006
    #9
  10. jacktheboy

    James Sweet Guest


    Moving components inside an interference engine, namely the pistons and
    the valves occupy the same space, just not at the same time. Broken
    timing belt causes the valves to stop moving while the pistons continue
    and things crash resulting in anything from a few bent valves to a
    pretty well destroyed engine. Virtually all engines with more than 2
    valves per cylinder are of the interference design, as are some with only 2.
     
    James Sweet, Dec 30, 2006
    #10
  11. jacktheboy

    Mike Lindsay Guest

    I see. Thanks, that makes it completely clear. Presumably, then if you
    had a high compression engine, say a diesel, it would likely be an
    interference type?
     
    Mike Lindsay, Dec 30, 2006
    #11
  12. jacktheboy

    James Sweet Guest


    Yes, I'm not aware of any non-interference Diesel engines, the
    compression is *so* much higher than a gasoline engine that you really
    can't have much empty space at the top of the cylinder.
     
    James Sweet, Dec 30, 2006
    #12
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