Tell me it's not a interference motor.

The timing belt broke on my '83 245.
Ironically, I was on the way to the auto parts to get gaskets to fix a
leaky water pump.

Pulled all the stuff off the front. Covers, belts, pulleys, water pump,
etc., and put a new timing belt on.

All the marks aligned nicely.

Fired it once to hear it run before I bolted everything back on. Started
second click, as always, and sounded good.

Took an hour longer than I liked to get the water pump on. Really have
to pry up and squeeze the O-ring under the head to get the bolts in.

Buttoned it all up and started it.
Nasty tic tic tic at the front of the engine, up top. Once a revolution,
near as I can tell. Almost sounds like a pre-ignition ping or a really
loose valve lash.

Ran out of light (and energy) to chase it tonight. I'm getting too old
for this stuff! *g*

Tomorrow, gonna have a look at the marks again, check the rotor is
pointing at the mark under the cap, and check compression.

Hopefully, nothing is bent in there..!

 

It'll be fine, unless you're really unlucky. B21/23/230F are
non-interference, although the clearance is tight.

 

O

It's non-interference, so no damage was done.

As for the noise, check the cam gear and make sure everything is
aligned and hooked up correctly; I had a similar noise, and that was
the problem (I did something wrong when putting the gear back on).

 

Well, I didn't remove the cam gear but I gave it a look anyway.
Sure enough, the back half of the guard was tweaked up and ticking in
the hole in the cam gear. Playing card in the spokes...
Thanks for getting me looking that direction and, thanks James for the
words of encouragement.

....now to deal with the water pouring out the bypass tube O-ring on the
water pump.
If it isn't one thing, it's a #$@&% 'nother.

 

Been there, done that. In my case whoever replaced the water pump forgot
the lock washer on the nut that holds that on, and eventually it fell off.

 

I trashed the O-ring installing the pump.
(note to self: google more, find the instruction that says unbolt the
tube from the block and deal with it after the pump is installed)
The ring was split in one place, nearly cut through in another, and
generally shredded.
Generous silicone and gentile reinsertion, should hold until the
replacement arrives from IPD.

Interesting, I discovered the cause of my temp gauge failure while
digging around.
The sender fell apart.
Porcelain part with spade sitting on the belly pan. Fell off the sender
and off the wire connector...
Also coming from IPD.

Lovely combination, iffy plumbing and no temp gauge.

 

Hmm I never messed with the tube changing a pump, I was just careful to
line it up and not mess up the o-ring.

I've never had a temp sensor break quite that badly, but I have had them
fail.

 

The last time I changed it, the tube was a non issue.
This pump was really stubborn, compressing the other O-ring enough to
get the bolts started.
The bolt holding the tube to the block is awkward to get at, behind #4
exhaust manifold. An offset box-end works nicely to get at it.

 

Hey, this is a family newsgroup, buddy!

 

Hmm I never messed with the tube changing a pump, I was just careful
to line it up and not mess up the o-ring.

I've never had a temp sensor break quite that badly, but I have had
them fail.[/QUOTE]

My impression from owning three 240s was that the temp sensor was broken
at the factory.

 

Behind the exhaust manifold toward the rear of the motor remove the bolt
that holds the tube to the block & you will never pinch the o-ring again
Glenn K
Volvo Certified Technician 2008
ASE Certified Technician 2008

 

That beast can be a bear to get a clear shot at on a turbo car.