Volvo 740 erratic idle

Discussion in 'Volvo 740' started by A, Jul 20, 2005.

  1. A

    A Guest

    Hi Everyone:

    The Machine:
    1990 Volvo 740 GLT 16v 2.3l
    4 speed + overdrive (ie stick shift)
    Estate
    193k miles, well looked after, used more-or-less daily on a variety of
    short (10 min) and long (1 hour+) runs.


    The Symptoms:
    - On a cold start it is quite erratic when idling - will go between
    ~500rpm and ~900rpm.
    - Initial accelleration from cold start is not smooth, but after a
    minute or so accelleration is normal and smooth, although idling is
    still erratic as above.
    - Having been driven for about five minutes idle is less erratic, though
    still wobbles between ~800rpm and ~900rpm.

    Someone pointed out that it could be an air leak somewhere. Do you think
    that this is feasible, and would it manifest itself anywhere else (eg at
    the air filter?)

    Many thanks for any replies received,

    Andrew
     
    A, Jul 20, 2005
    #1
  2. A

    James Sweet Guest

    Yeah it sounds like classic symptoms of a vacuum leak, look for any cracked
    or disconnected hoses, and carefully inspect the accordian hose between the
    AMM and the throttle body.
     
    James Sweet, Jul 21, 2005
    #2
  3. A

    James Taylor Guest



    Check your distributer cap. Oil can get inside from the shaft seal
    and cause poor performance.
     
    James Taylor, Jul 21, 2005
    #3
  4. A typical cause of cold idle problems is a dirty throttle body. When
    cleaning it, pay particular attention to the passage at the bottom that goes
    to the idle adjust knurled screw. Be sure to start with a nearly full can of
    carb cleaner, because it takes most of a can to clean all the goo out.

    Mike
     
    Michael Pardee, Jul 21, 2005
    #4
  5. A

    A Guest

    Without actually having done anything, the car now refuses to start when
    hot, yet starts first time from cold...any further thoughts anyone?

    Cheers,

    A
     
    A, Jul 22, 2005
    #5
  6. A

    A Guest

    Without actually having done anything, the car now refuses to start when
    hot, yet starts first time from cold...any further thoughts anyone?

    Cheers,

    A
     
    A, Jul 22, 2005
    #6
  7. A

    A Guest

    Without actually having done anything, the car now refuses to start when
    hot, yet starts first time from cold...any further thoughts anyone?

    Cheers,

    A
     
    A, Jul 22, 2005
    #7
  8. First try just one press of the send key. Next look on the Brickboard Forum
    FAQs.

    All the best, Peter.

    700/900/90 Register Keeper,
    Volvo Owners Club (UK).
     
    Peter K L Milnes, Jul 23, 2005
    #8
  9. A

    James Sweet Guest


    Check the coolant temperature sensor, not the one for the guage but for the
    injection, as well as the wiring to it.
     
    James Sweet, Jul 23, 2005
    #9
  10. A

    A Guest

    Sorry, I reconfigured my SMTP server and it threw a bit of a wobbly...
    Thanks for the tip about the Forum.

    A
     
    A, Jul 23, 2005
    #10
  11. A

    Andy Coles Guest

    Hi A

    JS, JT and MP have certainly hit the obvious suspects for your problem. We
    have a 1989 740 gl auto 2 ltr with 130,000 miles and believe it or not have
    been through the same as you more than once but with different solutions.

    May I add to the list firstly, hardening of the fuel injector seals. These
    do harden over time and need replacing. To check get a can of WD40 and
    liberally spray around the base of the injectors where the injectors go into
    the manifold. If you tickover picks up and suddenly becomes more consistant
    then there you go. A couple of quids for replacement seals and it takes 5
    mns per injector for an amateur to replace.

    Secondly, over the years I also had a prob with the inlet manifold gasket
    leaking which caused the same symptoms. In my case the gasket was ok cos
    all I did was tighten the manifold nuts a smidgeon and all was well again.

    Whilst posting, given the mileage of your 740 if you have not had the
    distributor cap, HT leads (incl the king lead which is known to short out)
    and rotor arm replaced - I am assuming here that your 1990 model is similar
    to my Sept 89 which has the distributor at the bulkhead end of the engine -
    then you might do well to invest in replacements. At 120,000 miles our tick
    over had slowly become annoyingly erratic even though the car still went and
    none of the other remedys seemed to work. When I rempved the Distributor
    cap the contact posts and the rotor arm were so warn I was amazed the car
    went at all. Replaced and all was well again. For some reason replacing
    these parts does not feature on Volvo's service schedules anywhere but
    clearly at some stage mechanical parts do wear out.

    Hope you get it sorted. Our 740 still sounds and runs like it did on day
    one.

    Regards

    Andy
     
    Andy Coles, Aug 1, 2005
    #11
Ask a Question

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments (here). After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.