My odometer stopped working this week, and I'd like to fix it. The trip odometer also stopped, but the speedo still works, and from what I've turned up on google, this sounds like an odometer gear. Has anyone done this, and have a feel for how hard it is? I'd rather not pay the dealer hundreds of bucks if it is something I can fix myself. My car is a 95 850 GLT, if that makes any difference. Thanks.
http://www.odometergears.com/ Have a look... The gear splits across its face and not hard (in the 200's at least) to get off or put on. However I broke 2 trying to lever it back because I pushed it on a bit too far. Maybe the resin is a bit weak or maybe I was to hasty, but anyway I gave up & bought another speedo from the wrecker. It's the wrong ratio (they vary for auto or manual g/box) but not far out, and the gear is broken too but still works.
1. Remove the entire dash top. It takes about 20 minutes longer, but saves a huge amount of struggle and potential damage compared to the alternative of prying up the left end of the dash and forcing the panel out through a tiny gap: http://webpages.charter.net/dwarner2/Topless.jpg Remove the two green connectors and the hose (The hose L-connector pulls off with a bit of twisting) NOTE: This requires disconnecting the airbag, Disconnect battery and follow proper procedures for handling this explosive device) 2. Remove these screws and the nut around the boost gauge fitting. http://webpages.charter.net/dwarner2/PanelBack.jpg 3. Remove the front housing. You can then gently pry off the dial faceplate using a flat stick of wood It's a tight friction fit, with plastic guides and the contact pins. There are no "hooks" http://webpages.charter.net/dwarner2/PanelSplit.jpg The odoometer just lifts out. Remove the reset pluger to avoid breaking it. 4. Two screws removes the motor from the right side, revealing the broken gear: http://webpages.charter.net/dwarner2/ODOgear.jpg 5. Install the gear you got from odometergears.com before starting this process. The one in back was cast in a flexible mold, and was unusable, I waited until he got his molding machine fixed, and sent me the one of the left. Still not perfect, but it works. If I had to do it again, I'd add a thin washer behind it to replace the raised boss on the original (amber) gear. http://webpages.charter.net/dwarner2/gears3.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/dwarner2/InstalledGear.jpg Put it all back together. The airbag bolts above the glovebox have a specific torque requirement. To reply, please remove one letter from each side of "@" Spammers are VERMIN. Please kill them all.
Wow! Thanks for the detailed instructions. I've ordered the part, so I'm hoping it goes pretty smoothly. Can you tell me the torque setting on those bolts you mentioned? Thanks again!
One other item: If you think you might have to drive the car with the dash off, get a 2.5 ohm, 1/4 watt resistor and stick it's leads in the airbag cable pin holes. This will make the controller think the detonator is still connected so it won't generate an airbag fault. Tape it up to keep it from shorting to the chassis. I drove mine this way for two weeks while waiting for the new gear. Also, keep track of what screws go where. To reply, please remove one letter from each side of "@" Spammers are VERMIN. Please kill them all.
I sent the first reply to this via email accidentally. Here's the public copy: Hmm, I thought I posted the answer 2 days ago, but now it's not here. The torque is 5.2 ft-lbs. The removal pages form the SRS service manual are here: http://webpages.charter.net/dwarner2/DashTop.jpg To reply, please remove one letter from each side of "@" Spammers are VERMIN. Please kill them all.
