Why does my engine seem to choke when I bump the throttle?

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Jamie, May 24, 2006.

  1. Jamie

    Jamie Guest

    1987 740 GLE B230F

    OK, engine starts and idles just fine - sounds good.
    While idling I either turn the throttle assembly by hand under the hood
    1/4 turn or barely push the throttle. By doing this the engine seems to
    choke out for about 1-2 seconds then picks up with a normal fast idle.

    I did this repeatedly, barely turn the throttle, the rpms dip, then
    pick back up.

    Idles -- dips -- picks up.

    Instead of going from idle to fast idle, it's like it chokes a moment
    then goes.

    Any ideas?

    I just had the timing belt and all seals redone with new crankshaft
    bearings, too.

    Does this sound like timing? Vacuum? Fuel Filter? Other?

    Thanks!
    Jamie
     
    Jamie, May 24, 2006
    #1
  2. Jamie

    User Guest

    Could be the IAC isn't opening all the way or is sluggish. Could be the
    MAF is going south. Clean the throttle housing and spray out the idle
    motor, and see if it improves.

    Bob
     
    User, May 24, 2006
    #2
  3. Jamie

    KLB Guest

    Sorry Jamie, meant to send to group on first send

    I myself really don't know but in looking at the FAQ's I saw this which
    might have something to do with your problem or at the very least looks
    like a quick easy test to eliminate one cause.

    [Diagnosis 5:] The fuel pressure regulator is worth a careful inspection.
    The fuel pressure must rise instantly in response to the vacuum signal fall
    that accompanies a throttle opening. A hardened diaphragm might be causing
    the fuel pressure that has been lessened by the fuel pressure regulator to
    not increase as rapidly as it must and you won't get the appropriate fuel
    quantity in spite of lengthened injector duration. Try an acceleration test
    with the vacuum hose pulled off fuel pressure regulator. Easiest way to
    check the FPR is to pull the vacuum hose off of it while the engine is
    idling. If the idle picks up, your FPR is good.
     
    KLB, May 24, 2006
    #3
  4. Jamie

    Jamie Guest

    Two other things I noticed:

    I am guess the MAF is the electronic assembly just past the air filter.
    (Square metal box in the intake line?). If so, is this supposed to be
    hot? After running around the neighborhood, this was hot to touch.

    Also, traveling from the air filter toward the intake manifold, just
    beneath the throttle assembly are 2 vacuum lines in the intake. A small
    hose on the right and a larger on the left. The left hose kept popping
    off and was split open. So, I cut the end, reattached it and after
    another run it popped off again. So I cut it again and it did it AGAIN.

    So, I ended up using a tie-wrap to hold it on and it hasn't come off
    since.

    ????????????????????????????????????
     
    Jamie, May 24, 2006
    #4
  5. No - it shouldn't be hot. Feel the top of the air cleaner box... it
    shouldn't be hot either. If it is, open the box and look at the flap that
    controls whether the air comes from outside or from the preheat hose. You
    will probably find it bringing in air from the preheat hose. It is
    controlled by a small pellet down at the bottom; they fail frequently and
    pretty much always fail in the "hot" position. You can remove the preheat
    hose as a patch until you replace the pellet if it is bad.

    Those hoses sound like the pair that go to the charcoal canister. Mine don't
    like to stay on either but that doesn't seem to affect engine operation.

    Mike
     
    Michael Pardee, May 24, 2006
    #5
  6. Jamie

    Jamie Guest

    Hmm, I wonder if that's why it feels like hot air is being pumped in
    the car when I am driving. Maybe something different all together.

    I'll need to look at my Haynes manual about that pellet - I am not sure
    I follow your description, the air box I don't think is hot, but I'll
    check.

    Yes, I do recall the 2 hoses going to a cannister near the headlight on
    one end, and the intake on the other - near the intake manifold.

    Thanks!
     
    Jamie, May 24, 2006
    #6
  7. Jamie

    Jamie Guest

    Update:
    I removed the airbox and saw the flap that directs air flow. There is a
    hole below the flap that I inserted a screw in and this held the flap
    open and directed fresh air into the intake - thus closing off the hot
    air intake.

    This made the car run like crap - not idle bad, but it ran very
    underpowered.

    So, I removed this and it seemed to default back to the hot air intake,
    but the car ran better. So, I don't know if this flap is changing on
    its own, or only letting hot exhaust air into the intake all of the
    time.
     
    Jamie, May 24, 2006
    #7
  8. That's odd. It should run fine with the hot air intake closed off. Maybe the
    cold air intake is blocked? I've never looked closely at how it is routed.

    Mike
     
    Michael Pardee, May 25, 2006
    #8
  9. Jamie

    Jamie Guest

    Thanks! Please see my timing belt post above. Also, there was a hole
    about 1/4" in the intake hose between the AMM and throttle body.
     
    Jamie, May 25, 2006
    #9
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