M
Misterbeets
Or possibly a fuel pump problem.
J
James Sweet
Misterbeets said:
That's certainly a fear, new pumps are $$$ and used ones are
questionable. I have no idea how many miles are on the pumps, the car
has 273K, no way of knowing if either fuel pump has ever been replaced.
M
Misterbeets
Maximum Auto Parts sells a noname set, in-tank and external, for under
$150. Worth trying to test for pressure and current draw if you have
those specs. If not, IMHO it's money well spent even if the problem is
elsewhere.
$150. Worth trying to test for pressure and current draw if you have
those specs. If not, IMHO it's money well spent even if the problem is
elsewhere.
J
James Sweet
Misterbeets said:
No way I'm gonna use a noname set of fuel pumps, that part is too
critical and I've had too many problems with junk aftermarket parts, I
never buy them anymore unless I have no choice, the exception being
upgrade components and consumables.
M
Michael Pardee
James Sweet said:
It also doesn't really sound like fuel supply trouble, which should be much
worse when the throttle is opened than anywhere around idle. Still sounds
like AMM to me. Does it happen reliably enough when cold and not happen
reliably enough when warm that you can lay a hot water bottle on the AMM and
connector before starting to see what that does?
Mike
J
John Robertson
I just thought I would clean my idle mixture set up ,got some small grit out
and discoloured oil ,as well cleaned the contacts on the oxy sensor as well
..I use "start ya bastard"which is an ether based product .Boy did my wife
react when she first saw the label on the can ?Works on lawn mowers as well
but not on me sadly I am just plain lazy
and discoloured oil ,as well cleaned the contacts on the oxy sensor as well
..I use "start ya bastard"which is an ether based product .Boy did my wife
react when she first saw the label on the can ?Works on lawn mowers as well
but not on me sadly I am just plain lazy
J
James Sweet
It's only happened four times so far, so not particularly often, I'm
hoping it will either go away or start happening all the time so I can
find the cause. I cleaned the connector on the AMM and it hasn't done it
again yet, but I've only driven the car once since then.
M
Michael Pardee
James Sweet said:
That really makes it sound like something other than fuel pumps themselves,
although I suppose the fuel pump relay part for the pre-pump is flaky.
Still, that more often shows up as starting trouble then rough running.
Here's hoping the connector cleaning does the job!
Mike
?
..................................................
James said:
My '84 240 Turbo does not have K-jet, it has CIS with the fuel
distributor in the front right hand corner of the engine compartment.
J
James Sweet
......................................................... said:
I.E. K-Jet...
J
James Sweet
Michael said:
I did resolder the fuel pump relay a couple years ago just for good
measure, I'll check that again just to make sure anyway though.
?
..................................................
James said:
The Volvo manuals show that K-Jetronic injectors are electrical. Mine
are not. The pipes from the fuel distributor come directly from the fuel
distributor to the intake manifold. The Volvo manual shows no electronic
fuel injectors for turbos in 84.
J
James Sweet
They're wrong then. K-Jet is entirely mechanical aside from the
frequency valve which is part of the Lambda-Sond system present on
"newer" cars.
LH-Jet is the system with electrical injectors.
N
NCMan
James Sweet said:
I missed the earlier replies - was there a diagnosis of the bucking problem?
My 1994 940 Turbo wagon (US specs) has developed it for a few minutes after
running fine when completely cold, then runs fine afterward.
The squence is the same now: Start the car and it runs fine for the first
few minutes. Then it bucks and revs up and down for several more minutes.
Then settles down and drives normally for the rest of the trip.
It seems (from the symptoms) that when the car is completely cold, the
appropriate system is working properly for a cold engine. Likewise for the
"warm" system when the car is fully warmed up. There is a short period of
time, though, between the two when the car "bucks".
I was hoping to find the, or a possible, answer without a trip to the Volvo
shop.
Yes, I will search the archives, but wanted to ask the question in case
there is more current information.
NCMan
U
User
Usually turbo intermittent bucking is due to a fuel delivery problem in
the tank, either a separated/rotted fuel feed hose from the prepump or a
faulty prepump. Given that all other systems have been checked and found
ok.
Bob
J
James Sweet
Well I had to make a run to the store tonight and as I started coasting
down the hill it started bucking again and then stalled. I pulled over
and was able to get it to start again but it quickly died. Fiddled with
the connector on the AMM and poked around under the hood a bit, started
and it was idling but as soon as I tried to ride out the clutch the car
started lurching and bucking, though I could rev the engine ok with the
clutch in. I finally got it running a little better and managed to nurse
it back up the hill into the driveway at which point it naturally
started idling fine.
Popped the hood and started poking around with the engine running and
found that if I poked at the wire on the #2 injector the engine died
instantly. Did that twice, then pulled the connector off, looked fine so
I stuck it back on. Now no amount of poking or tugging has any effect,
even unplugging the injector with the engine running doesn't make it run
nearly as bad as it was on the road. My first thought was wires
deteriorating under the outer sheath but squishing and rolling around
the wire now has no effect. By this time it's after midnight so I can't
be out there screwing with it much but hopefully I can track this down
for sure. I'm thinking new wiring harness is the best next step but
christmas pretty well took care of the budget this month. Maybe I can
patch up the existing one until I can find a recently replaced harness
at the wrecker.
down the hill it started bucking again and then stalled. I pulled over
and was able to get it to start again but it quickly died. Fiddled with
the connector on the AMM and poked around under the hood a bit, started
and it was idling but as soon as I tried to ride out the clutch the car
started lurching and bucking, though I could rev the engine ok with the
clutch in. I finally got it running a little better and managed to nurse
it back up the hill into the driveway at which point it naturally
started idling fine.
Popped the hood and started poking around with the engine running and
found that if I poked at the wire on the #2 injector the engine died
instantly. Did that twice, then pulled the connector off, looked fine so
I stuck it back on. Now no amount of poking or tugging has any effect,
even unplugging the injector with the engine running doesn't make it run
nearly as bad as it was on the road. My first thought was wires
deteriorating under the outer sheath but squishing and rolling around
the wire now has no effect. By this time it's after midnight so I can't
be out there screwing with it much but hopefully I can track this down
for sure. I'm thinking new wiring harness is the best next step but
christmas pretty well took care of the budget this month. Maybe I can
patch up the existing one until I can find a recently replaced harness
at the wrecker.
C
CMan
User said:
Good ideas. I will look into them in the morning.
NCMan