B
billy_bunter
Gunnar Eikman took the time to write...:
great idea - when the rain stops I will give that a try....
Thanks !!
great idea - when the rain stops I will give that a try....
Thanks !!
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P
Peter Milnes
Although with the 1172 cc Anglia you needed three hands to adjust the tappets.
Cheers, Peter.
: Stewart Hargrave said...:
:
: > Because there's more to the internet than hits alone, billy_bunter
: > wrote:
: >
:
: >>Ok, I used another timing light, same results, the timing mark is still at
: >>about 3'o'clock, so about 30 degrees out ??
:
: > Surely 3 o'clock would be over 90 degs out? This still doesn't make
: > any sense.
:
: > I wonder if the crank pulley has been reassembled without it's key,
: > depending entirely upon the bolt being done up tight enough to stop it
: > slipping - which it has?
:
: Yes - 90 degrees, geometry never was my strongest subject...
: I now have another clue - apparently there are a couple of locating pins on
: the rear of the bottom pulley that can shear off, leaving the pulley to
: move independantly of the shaft sometimes.
:
: I still fail to understand how it runs under these conditions, but I am
: forced into seeking professional help now - It's beyond me. I have a local
: man that thinks the bottom pulley is at fault, he is going to test the
: ignition electrics and look at the pins.... watch this space !
:
: Why are these volvos so damned complicated??
: Bring back the anglia !!
: (a 9/16th and a screwdriver was all you needed for a full strip down)
Cheers, Peter.
: Stewart Hargrave said...:
:
: > Because there's more to the internet than hits alone, billy_bunter
: > wrote:
: >
:
: >>Ok, I used another timing light, same results, the timing mark is still at
: >>about 3'o'clock, so about 30 degrees out ??
:
: > Surely 3 o'clock would be over 90 degs out? This still doesn't make
: > any sense.
:
: > I wonder if the crank pulley has been reassembled without it's key,
: > depending entirely upon the bolt being done up tight enough to stop it
: > slipping - which it has?
:
: Yes - 90 degrees, geometry never was my strongest subject...
: I now have another clue - apparently there are a couple of locating pins on
: the rear of the bottom pulley that can shear off, leaving the pulley to
: move independantly of the shaft sometimes.
:
: I still fail to understand how it runs under these conditions, but I am
: forced into seeking professional help now - It's beyond me. I have a local
: man that thinks the bottom pulley is at fault, he is going to test the
: ignition electrics and look at the pins.... watch this space !
:
: Why are these volvos so damned complicated??
: Bring back the anglia !!
: (a 9/16th and a screwdriver was all you needed for a full strip down)
M
Mike F
billy_bunter said:Ok, after disconnecting the fuse, nothings changed except the lambda light
on the dash is now out - it had been lit for about 4 months since we had a
new tail section put on the exhaust.
The engine is still rough........
The fact that your lambda light was on was the most important piece of
information. It's too late now, but when the lambda (or check engine)
light comes on, the computer has something to tell you. Learn how to
find out, and what it means at:
http://brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm
B
billy_bunter
Mike F took the time to write...:
Thanks for that link - The codes all come back as 1.1.1, and presumably
removing the battery has NOT cleared the memory - so there is nothing there
to find ???
billy_bunter wrote:
The fact that your lambda light was on was the most important piece of
information. It's too late now, but when the lambda (or check engine)
light comes on, the computer has something to tell you. Learn how to
find out, and what it means at:
Thanks for that link - The codes all come back as 1.1.1, and presumably
removing the battery has NOT cleared the memory - so there is nothing there
to find ???
M
Mike F
billy_bunter said:Thanks for that link - The codes all come back as 1.1.1, and presumably
removing the battery has NOT cleared the memory - so there is nothing there
to find ???
No, disconnecting the battery for a period of time resets all the
memories and turns off the light. If the problem persists, hopefully
the light will come back on, give you a code and point you in the right
direction for repair.
B
Bigjon
Mike F declared:
whoops.....
billy_bunter wrote:
No, disconnecting the battery for a period of time resets all the
memories and turns off the light. If the problem persists, hopefully
the light will come back on, give you a code and point you in the right
direction for repair.
whoops.....
B
Bigjon
billy_bunter declared:
Ok, after much huffing and puffing, the bottom pulley was removed, and it
had slipped. The guy found a replacement, checked it all and the timing is
now OK.
I had the car put on a compy for ignition diagnostics, no problems. The
readouts were all fine, bar a "slight misfire" that is STILL unexplained.
- There is nothing electrically amiss.
The fuel system is OK.
The ignition is OK.
The emissions are OK.
Why is it still misfiring - albeit ever so slight, enough to still dip the
revs from 650 to 400 on idle intermittently...and it still stalls in
traffic queues.
Once the revs hit around 2000 it seems 100% ok ...
Could this be something like a sticky valve or even a broken valve spring?
If so, what would that entail to get fixed - am I looking at a main dealer
jobby @£40 an hour ??
( I'm in the North West UK, Wigan area, if anyone knows a good Volvo
mechanic local to me )
Gunnar Eikman took the time to write...:
great idea - when the rain stops I will give that a try....
Thanks !!
Ok, after much huffing and puffing, the bottom pulley was removed, and it
had slipped. The guy found a replacement, checked it all and the timing is
now OK.
I had the car put on a compy for ignition diagnostics, no problems. The
readouts were all fine, bar a "slight misfire" that is STILL unexplained.
- There is nothing electrically amiss.
The fuel system is OK.
The ignition is OK.
The emissions are OK.
Why is it still misfiring - albeit ever so slight, enough to still dip the
revs from 650 to 400 on idle intermittently...and it still stalls in
traffic queues.
Once the revs hit around 2000 it seems 100% ok ...
Could this be something like a sticky valve or even a broken valve spring?
If so, what would that entail to get fixed - am I looking at a main dealer
jobby @£40 an hour ??
( I'm in the North West UK, Wigan area, if anyone knows a good Volvo
mechanic local to me )
S
Stewart Hargrave
Because there's more to the internet than hits alone, Bigjon wrote:
Hmm.. If you have a misfire, then at least one of these is *not* OK.
650 rpm is a bit on the low side for idle. I'd tweak it up to 800 or
more. This may help to even out any irregularities.
Maybe. But I'd do some more diagnostics first, before taking off the
cylinder head. Check out all your ignition components. Check for
induction leaks, run a compression test...
Don't even start thinking about this yet.
--
Stewart Hargrave
I run on beans - laser beans
For email, replace 'SpamOnlyToHere' with my name
I had the car put on a compy for ignition diagnostics, no problems. The
readouts were all fine, bar a "slight misfire" that is STILL unexplained.
- There is nothing electrically amiss.
The fuel system is OK.
The ignition is OK.
The emissions are OK.
Hmm.. If you have a misfire, then at least one of these is *not* OK.
Why is it still misfiring - albeit ever so slight, enough to still dip the
revs from 650 to 400 on idle intermittently...and it still stalls in
traffic queues.
650 rpm is a bit on the low side for idle. I'd tweak it up to 800 or
more. This may help to even out any irregularities.
Once the revs hit around 2000 it seems 100% ok ...
Could this be something like a sticky valve or even a broken valve spring?
Maybe. But I'd do some more diagnostics first, before taking off the
cylinder head. Check out all your ignition components. Check for
induction leaks, run a compression test...
If so, what would that entail to get fixed - am I looking at a main dealer
jobby @£40 an hour ??
Don't even start thinking about this yet.
--
Stewart Hargrave
I run on beans - laser beans
For email, replace 'SpamOnlyToHere' with my name
J
James Sweet
Bigjon said:billy_bunter declared:
Ok, after much huffing and puffing, the bottom pulley was removed, and it
had slipped. The guy found a replacement, checked it all and the timing is
now OK.
I had the car put on a compy for ignition diagnostics, no problems. The
readouts were all fine, bar a "slight misfire" that is STILL unexplained.
- There is nothing electrically amiss.
The fuel system is OK.
The ignition is OK.
The emissions are OK.
Why is it still misfiring - albeit ever so slight, enough to still dip the
revs from 650 to 400 on idle intermittently...and it still stalls in
traffic queues.
Once the revs hit around 2000 it seems 100% ok ...
My 740 had a slight misfire when the intake manifold gasket was messed up so
the injector was spraying on it, you could have your injectors cleaned and
matched, and check the gasket, it's cheap.
B
billy_bunter
James Sweet took the time to write...:
Ok, Injectors and gasket next then -
Many thanks for the continuing GREAT advice here !!
My 740 had a slight misfire when the intake manifold gasket was messed up so
the injector was spraying on it, you could have your injectors cleaned and
matched, and check the gasket, it's cheap.
Ok, Injectors and gasket next then -
Many thanks for the continuing GREAT advice here !!
B
billy_bunter
Stewart Hargrave took the time to write...:
I have now raised the idle, and replaced the Idle control valve...
Still spluttering up to about 2000....
Because there's more to the internet than hits alone, Bigjon wrote:
Hmm.. If you have a misfire, then at least one of these is *not* OK.
650 rpm is a bit on the low side for idle. I'd tweak it up to 800 or
more. This may help to even out any irregularities.
Maybe. But I'd do some more diagnostics first, before taking off the
cylinder head. Check out all your ignition components. Check for
induction leaks, run a compression test...
Don't even start thinking about this yet.
I have now raised the idle, and replaced the Idle control valve...
Still spluttering up to about 2000....
J
James Sweet
billy_bunter said:Stewart Hargrave took the time to write...:
spring?
I have now raised the idle, and replaced the Idle control valve...
Still spluttering up to about 2000....
--
That still sounds like ignition though, my injector issue only caused a
noticeable misfire at idle, but then again it's only about $40 to have the
injectors cleaned and reconditioned, can't hurt.
G
Gunnar Eikman
I have not tried it myself but "starting gas" (may not be correct
English word) is supposed to be great for intake manifold leak
detection (including gaskets and injector seals).
Let the car idle while spraying starting gas along possible leak
locations. If idle rpm changes, you have a leak. Due to fire hazard I
would do this outside on a day with little wind.
--
Gunnar
240 Turbo Wagon '84 200 K Miles
940 Wagon '92 150 K Miles
on Swedish roads
English word) is supposed to be great for intake manifold leak
detection (including gaskets and injector seals).
Let the car idle while spraying starting gas along possible leak
locations. If idle rpm changes, you have a leak. Due to fire hazard I
would do this outside on a day with little wind.
Ok, Injectors and gasket next then -
Many thanks for the continuing GREAT advice here !!
--
Gunnar
240 Turbo Wagon '84 200 K Miles
940 Wagon '92 150 K Miles
on Swedish roads
B
billy_bunter
Gunnar Eikman took the time to write...:
Hmmm... you are more daring than I am !!
I think I will give that idea ( I think you mean "easy start" ) a miss.
I'm off to find an injector seal set tomorrow, and a Gasket.
Watch this space....
I have not tried it myself but "starting gas" (may not be correct
English word) is supposed to be great for intake manifold leak
detection (including gaskets and injector seals).
Let the car idle while spraying starting gas along possible leak
locations. If idle rpm changes, you have a leak. Due to fire hazard I
would do this outside on a day with little wind.
Hmmm... you are more daring than I am !!
I think I will give that idea ( I think you mean "easy start" ) a miss.
I'm off to find an injector seal set tomorrow, and a Gasket.
Watch this space....
S
Stewart Hargrave
Because there's more to the internet than hits alone, billy_bunter
wrote:
Alternatively, just use water. I trickled water over my injectors and
manifold gasket to find a leak. Usually a small leak will be
temporarily sealed by the water and idle will improve for a short
while. In my case the leak was so bad that the water was drawn in and
stalled the engine. Either way, the leak is obvious.
--
Stewart Hargrave
I run on beans - laser beans
For email, replace 'SpamOnlyToHere' with my name
wrote:
Gunnar Eikman took the time to write...:
Hmmm... you are more daring than I am !!
I think I will give that idea ( I think you mean "easy start" ) a miss.
Alternatively, just use water. I trickled water over my injectors and
manifold gasket to find a leak. Usually a small leak will be
temporarily sealed by the water and idle will improve for a short
while. In my case the leak was so bad that the water was drawn in and
stalled the engine. Either way, the leak is obvious.
--
Stewart Hargrave
I run on beans - laser beans
For email, replace 'SpamOnlyToHere' with my name
J
Jim Carriere
Stewart Hargrave said:Because there's more to the internet than hits alone, billy_bunter
wrote:
Alternatively, just use water. I trickled water over my injectors and
Or WD-40, which, by the way, also works as starting fluid and I argue is
preferable for that use, because it is not as explosive as ether!