steering difficulties-'88 240

  • Thread starter Thread starter ignatz
  • Start date Start date
I think I have the same kind of problem on my 745 1989. Some days earlier I
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seizing joint in the steering wheel axle before the steering gear. Seems to be a
typical problem...
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It was the joint, too, in my car, The mechanic took out the joint and it was the
culprit. Unfortunately it could not be made easy-going by spraying and
lubricating any more. The spare part costs 136 Euros has to be ordered from
Sweden, not available in a residential area whith about 1,6 million people.

I have a little suspicion, what might be the reason for this my problem. About 3
years ago on a holiday trip I found one day that the little lid over the towing
hook on the left side in in the front spoiler was missing. I did not bother to
buy a new one, could not get a white one on the local Volvo junk yard. Since I
have also found that the bottom left aluminum part of the cooler shows sings of
corrosion and one of the clamps is almost broken, I have got the idea that water
droplets getting in through the hole in the spoiler on the left side over
several years has maybe damaged the joint and the cooler as well. Maybe far
fetched....But I will go and get a lid in whatever colour after having the joint
replace.

Viktor
 
Hi! In this continuing saga - have not disconnected catalytic but did the
tune-up thing, and new fuel filter, wires, plugs, etc just to cover all
bases. Also found a couple of severed lines going to charcoal canister.
Still was running erratically and hard starting when cold. Voltage at O2
sensor just 10 millivolts! Did run better when it was plugged in , though.
So, still a lean condition. And then, after disconnecting and
reconnecting vacuum line to Fuel pressure regulator, took a break. Went
back out to see if Exh. manifold had test port as some do - found none,
started it up and it is running perfect - have driven it 20 miles now and
no hint of original problem (other than I still dont know if it will pass
Echeck). Wonder if fuel press. reg. was stuck, or ? Hopefully this
gremlin is dead! thanx for all help, bob
 
ignatz said:
Hi! In this continuing saga - have not disconnected catalytic but did the
tune-up thing, and new fuel filter, wires, plugs, etc just to cover all
bases. Also found a couple of severed lines going to charcoal canister.
Still was running erratically and hard starting when cold. Voltage at O2
sensor just 10 millivolts! Did run better when it was plugged in , though.
So, still a lean condition. And then, after disconnecting and
reconnecting vacuum line to Fuel pressure regulator, took a break. Went
back out to see if Exh. manifold had test port as some do - found none,
started it up and it is running perfect - have driven it 20 miles now and
no hint of original problem (other than I still dont know if it will pass
Echeck). Wonder if fuel press. reg. was stuck, or ? Hopefully this
gremlin is dead! thanx for all help, bob
Click to expand...

Vac leaks have a cumulative effect, and so if messing with the
regulator's line helped a little I would suggest checking all the
lines. Pull and replace them. If you find any that are cracked at the
ends or come off easily, either cut a bit off the end for a tighter
fit or replace them as applicable.

__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"
 
Just found that when I took out fuse for in-tank pump- no difference in
performance! With a full tank, it also runs better- must be the pump!
Will have to get that crazy tool to get that thing loose, but I think
thats the problem with lean running condition. Thanx for all the help!
bob
 
ignatz said:
Just found that when I took out fuse for in-tank pump- no difference in
performance! With a full tank, it also runs better- must be the pump!
Will have to get that crazy tool to get that thing loose, but I think
thats the problem with lean running condition. Thanx for all the help!
Click to expand...
_____
To check for in-tank pump failure:
1) In sedan lift carpet in trunk, expose wiring towards left of
trunk, disconnect fuel level/pump connector.
2) Check brown ground wire for good connection to body. Measure
resistance to ground on black wire to pump. Should read around 1 to 2
Ohms. If open circuit, then pump has failed.
3) In wagon, remove two screws holding cargo floor down, lift and
proceed as in 2).

For details on how to remove/replace in-tank pump, refer to section "3.1
Fuel injection system" at
http://contrex-consulting.ca/245dl_1981_restoration.html.

You don't need a special tool to remove the pump if it is bad. Two 12
inch flat screw drivers or bars and some wooden blocks will do fine, but
beware of sparks. If you are handy with a welding kit, you can make
your own tool. In-tank pump removal/replacement is not trivial because
of the location. Took me a whole day working carefully. FCP Groton is
a good source for this part if you live in the USA.

/ JCH
 
Thanx for the info - the pump did indeed read open circuit - ordered from
IPD and sprung for the $24 bung nut tool as well. Did not pass echeck for
second time - NO lower but still not low enough - hoping this repair will
do the trick! bob
 
Volvo finally did pass echeck and running well 90% of the time. Still,
about once a week and usually when starting off from a stop, car will
start running badly ,like running on two cylinders. takes a minute or two
before it comes out of this funk! I have also replaced the fuel pressure
regulator, back pump, fuel filter, tune up parts. Some days it doesnt act
up at all. Wonder now if intermittent in the computer module on firewall?
Any help, as always is appreciated! bob d. (ignatz)
 
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