volvo just cuts off as I'm driving.. can you help me please

Thanks Mike,
I try this when I come home.
Do you know where I can find more info about K-Jetronic ?
I have the Haines manual for this car, but of cause this engine B230E is not
covered.
Should not the car start when I trigged the fuel pump manually ? the signal
to turn on the relay, where is it coming from ?
will it go trough a relay ?
Have a nice weekend.

 

You need 3 things for your car to run.
1. fuel
2. spark at the correct time
3. compression

My guess is you don't have spark. Without spark, the fuel pump relay
won't energize the fuel pumps. The fuel pump relay uses the same signal
the tachometer uses (red-white wire) - without that the fuel pumps stay
off.

So, if you don't have fuel AND spark, just adding one of them (fuel in
your case) isn't going to help.

We had K-Jetronic over here - just in the 240s, and in the US, only up
to 1982. (Canada up to 1984.) Just look for 240 info, in the older
cars. (We had K-Jetronic V6s in both 200 and 700 up to 1986.)

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

 

Hi Mike,

I tested like you described.
I have light on both sides, but while cranking no flashing on the side of
the coil with white wire. The other unchanged as well.
I removed the cap and rotor and cleaned everything, all wires as well.
I noticed some small black plastic pieces as well inside, I guess they come
from the plug below with 3 wires ( Hall sensor)
I think I read somewhere that if it was inside the distributor it is a hall
sensor, even if the house of the sensor is broken, I could not find any
loose wires, I pushed gently to see if any wire was loose, but they where
not.
I will try to check the Hall sensor tomorrow.

I have changed the power switching unit, but could it still be this, or can
we now say it is caused by the Hall sensor ?

P.S I even measured the plug wires, they where all app 6K, and the one to
the coil was about 3K

 

Hi Mike,
Latest news, I opened the distributor again, to locate the Hall sensor.
I wanted to check the Hall sensor, by measuring according to what I found on
the net, to be honest I could not measure anything, so I have apparently
misunderstood something.

However, I cleaned every thing also the sensor, put it all back together and
to my surprise it started after that, my son have now taken 3-4 trips today,
no problem so far.
I guess I have been lucky, and it will only work for a day or 2, I guess
that the sensor is about to quit, and that I have to start looking for a new
distributor with the sensor mounted, it seems to complex to only change the
sensor, I read that you should be quit skilled to do that, and I don't want
to hammer anything and make it worse.

Do you agree that I now 100% could blame the Hall sensor ?, if so I can
start looking for a new distributor ( find the cheapest)

Thanks for your help, it was when you told me how to measure on the coil,
that the solution came.

 

It's quite possible that the problem was just a dirty connector at the hall
sensor. I've also seen the little wires break off, usually the plug breaks
off the distributor and dangles by wires, I've had to epoxy a few of those.

 

I would look very closely at both the terminals for corrosion, and the
wire harness from the Hall sensor to where it joins the main harness.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

 

We where in heaven for 1 and a half week, now it's back.

I guess we have to change the Hall sensor (first I try the contacts again)
I wish you all a nice weekend, without any stalling car's